Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear cuts)
March 17, 2021BruceDayneReviewing this jumper from Stoffa is a good opportunity to discuss the current trend of knitwear being cut shorter and wider, in something of a vintage style. The way knitwear is usually designed to work, the ribbing at the bottom sits on t... > Read more
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Made-to-order umbrellas at Francesco Maglia
March 15, 2021BruceDayneWhen I visited the Francesco Maglia workshop in Milan last year, I ordered a bespoke umbrella. Why? Purely to deepen the experience of the visit. There's no other excuse really. I’m not such an unusual height that I require particular dimen... > Read more
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In our recent article ' Outfits that I got wrong', a reader commented that he would be interested in the opposite post. Not outfits I got right - hopefully there are lots of those - but ones I got the most right, or I like the most. Perhaps,... > Read more
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The (18) bespoke shoemakers I have known
March 10, 2021BruceDayne
This article was originally written back in 2014. Back then I had tried seven bespoke shoemakers, and nothing in Japan. Seven years later, the number has more than doubled, and the spread is wider – also encompassing some semi-bespoke and some remote fittings.
This then is a summary of my experiences with different bespoke shoemakers, meant as a jumping-off point for those new to the area. Have a read of the each summary, then use the links to find the articles with more information. Usually there are at least two – one background article and one specific review. Both will be helpful.
This is a partner to the ‘Tailors I have known’ article, which does something similar but with 55 bespoke tailors. There is also one on shirtmakers (21) here, and one coming on made-to-measure brands.
Cleverley
I had three pairs of bespoke shoes from Cleverley – brown cap-toes, black imitation brogues and Russian-reindeer monk straps (above). I covered the process of making the first pair in detail, over 13 posts, so there is no lack of detail on them.
I had a few issues with the fit of the first couple of pairs, specifically around the outside joints and my little toe. This was mitigated with stretching – something I should have gone in and asked about earlier. More on that in my update post on the brown pair here.
Surprisingly, Cleverley might be the most distinct shoemaker on this list, as their standard shoe is lighter in construction than anyone else. This makes them comfortable slightly quicker in the morning, but less comfortable s towards the end of the day, in my experience. If Cleverley lacks anything, it is around finishing, as they don’t do burnishing or patina work.
Foster & Son
I had a pair of dark-brown oxfords made with Foster & Son, and they too were surprisingly unusual. The last shape was more curved – ‘banana’ shaped – than any other pair I’ve had, though this wasn’t that noticeable unless you looked at the profile from the top.
The fit was good, better than the Cleverley for a first pair. But there were issues with the finish, where the heavily patinatation began to quickly flake off. Still, this was quite easily dealt with and they remain a very good fit.
Nicholas Templeman
Nicholas Templeman is an ex-John Lobb shoemaker, and his approach is best thought of as grounded in that tradition, with a slightly wider appreciation of styles elsewhere.
He made me a pair of grained derbys with a beautiful chain stitch around the apron (above). The fit was very good, and comfortable immediately. I also liked the subtle styling, with no work lacking in the waist or heel, but less extreme approaches than seen with other makers.
The facings needed to be tweaked a couple of times, to get them to line up better when laced on my foot. But Nicholas was very happy, indeed insistent, on correcting this as much as possible.
Gaziano & Girling
I have had three pairs of bespoke from Tony, Dean and co – a seamless slip-on in hatchgrain leather, an oxford adelaide (pictured above) and a suede slip-on (below). The adelaides were made in the wrong colour originally, and were subsequently patinated to the dark-brown you can see here.
Those shoes are among my best-fitting pair of bespoke. It helped I think that the style is quite a standard G&G one – this was not starting from scratch on a new design. The seamless loafers were beautiful, and one of my favourite pairs from a style point of view. But the fit was trickier, both being new and being a loafer. More on the suede slip-ons below.
Daniel Wegan / Catella
These suede slip-ons were made while Daniel Wegan was at Gaziano & Girling, and they are Gaziano & Girling shoes. However, Daniel made a new last for these, as well as making and fitting them throughout. So now that Daniel is set up on his own, they do provide some experience of his service as well.
The loafers were probably the most beautiful in terms of the sole and heel work I’ve had, with a thin sculpted waist and pitched heel. The shape was also very elegant. The fit wasn’t the best, and we had a couple of tries at stretching them since to improve that. But part of that is probably down to having loafers as a first pair of bespoke.
Tim Little
The Tim Little brand (at Grenson) used to offer a little-discussed bespoke service, with Tim doing the consultation in his shop and the measuring and pattern-making being done by Tony Botterill. The key attraction was the price, which back in 2014 when I had my boots made, was £1950 for the first pair and £900 thereafter (once the last was done).
Tim was upfront from the beginning that the shoes would have none of the delicacies of top bespoke – the shaped waists, pitched heels and so on. But they would be hand-sewn on a bespoke last. And that delivered, in that the fit was good (after an initial fitting where I couldn’t get the boots on!).
However, the materials are still at a Grenson level, and I feel like this a bit of a mismatch. I wouldn’t use the service again, preferring decent-fitting higher-quality RTW shoes.
Yohei Fukuda
These are among my favourite pairs of bespoke shoes, and yet they’re not strictly speaking bespoke, which I think speaks to how important design remains in bespoke shoemaking, as in tailoring.
I had wanted a pair of Yohei’s shoes for a long time, yet he wasn’t doing trunk shows in the UK. So when I visited Japan, I tried on the classic oxford he makes, and asked Yohei to adapt a RTW last as best he could. The result was good – not the best bespoke fit I’ve ever had, but still better than ready-to-wear, and exquisitely made.
Masaru Okuyama
Masaru Okuyama is a Japanese shoemaker, based in Hong Kong. He made me the dark-brown oxfords shown above (I know, a recurring style for me, but it is the one I wear the most by far). They were superbly made, and I think reflect at a broader level the excellence that Japanese shoemakers have brought to the industry – whether working in Hong Kong, Italy or England.
The fit was also very good. Not perfect, but then a first pair of bespoke usually isn’t – something that I think should put off most readers that are unsure about committing the time and money. The last was also a little long and there was a bit too much room in the vamp, both of which I would have changed had I commissioned a second pair.
Stefano Bemer
I am rather emotional about my Stefano Bemer shoes, given I was measured and the first pair ordered from Stefano, before he passed away. I have since had three pairs in total: tan oxfords, tobacco-suede oxfords and hatchgrain oxfords (above).
The fit of the first pair was quite good, but we did have issues with the in-step and the way the elongated toe-cap bent the vamp. These were corrected on the second pair, which were a great fit. And the third demonstrated a way that bespoke can be more accessible – they were partly machine made, on my bespoke last, under the ‘Blue bespoke’ offering from Bemer.
Antonio pio Mele
Antonio is a shoemaker in Milan, who does a wide range of leather goods and styles of shoes, including trainers. He has a lovely atelier, and offered to make me a pair of oxfords when I visited him several years ago.
Unfortunately the fit of the shoes at the fitting was not that good, and we subsequently had a disagreement about covering them. As a result, I didn’t receive a final pair of shoes and can’t comment on the full process.
Stivaleria Savoia
Savoia is another Milanese shoemaker, and an old, stored one. ‘Stivaleria’ means bootmaker, and the company was founded by the makers of boots for the Savoia, or Savoy, cavalry. They are also owned now by the famous Neapolitan tiemaker E.Marinella, which has helped bring them more attention.
The shoes that Savoia made me (above) were OK in the fit, but lacked something in the style. This wasn’t just the absence of bespoke touches like fine waists or heels. Lobb and others do that too. It was more the fact that the shoes looked like old-fashioned and perhaps even characterless. I do like rounder, wider shoes often (such as Aldens) but these fell down on that personal point of view.
Rivolta
Rivolta is also based in Milan. Their inclusion here should be heavily qualified by the fact that I had boots made by them 11 years ago, and I’m told their process has changed since then.
They used an electronic foot-scanning machine to make a last for me, which was then made into (beautifully crafted) suede boots. Unfortunately the scanning process didn’t work perfectly, and they didn’t fit. They were subsequently remade, and much improved, but still didn’t work out in the long term. Interestingly, there was a bit of a vogue for these machines back then, with old brand Lodger using one too. This seems to resurface now and again.
I would like to re-try Rivolta sometime, given this was quite a specific experience.
Saint Crispin’s
We’re now into semi-bespoke. Saint Crispin’s do offer a bespoke service, but it’s not one used that much. They are better known for a handmade shoe made on an adjusted last – so without multiple fittings – and being cheaper as a result.
I have had two pairs of shoes and two pairs of boots made, with the first being the wing-tips shown above. The make of the shoes has been fantastic, and I couldn’t recommend that more highly, given the price. However, there have been issues with the fit, with the two boots working out a lot better than the two pairs of shoes. The latter have both needed to be relasted, but still weren’t as good.
However if the fit can work for you, it’s the first thing I’d recommend to a reader looking to upgrade on RTW, but not sure about bespoke.
Petru & Claymoor
I put Petru & Claymoor here in the list, because they also make in Romania, like Saint Crispin’s, and are similar in style as well. The shoes above were made for me last year, during lockdown, and so measured and fitted remotely. They do offer full bespoke, but I include the shoes in more of a semi-bespoke section for that reason.
The shoes were very well made, although rather stiff. They also fitted well, which was impressive given the remote process. But that lack of direct communication probably affected the style, as they were made particularly wide in the joints, creating a wide shoe that I didn’t like so much the style of.
Santoni
I’m not a particular fan of the Santoni style of shoe. But I was interested in trying out the service when it was offered, as part of work for a magazine, because it’s always interesting to see how bigger brands handle a bespoke type of service.
The shoes were nice, but I think more like an extension of the ready-to-wear, rather than the bespoke covered elsewhere in this piece. So although a new last was made, the fit around the arch and heel was not that precise. And that goes for the make too: the welt and sole were hand-sewn, but the look is still very much one of a RTW Santoni shoe.
Norman Vilalta
Norman is one of my favourite people in the world – a great character and a great craftsman. We started a project to make a bespoke pair of boots years ago, after a long discussion about boot styles in Madrid.
We did get to a fitting stage, in waste leather, but we couldn’t agree on the style. Perhaps because I had in mind something more traditionally English, and not so much what Norman normally makes. From the start it had been an experiment Norman was trying out with me, rather than a commission by a customer, and not something he was charging for as a result. And in the end we decided to leave it, with the hope of doing something else more Norman, in the future.
Carreducker
These last two are holding posts. I am in the process of making a pair of bespoke boots with James at Carreducker, but with two interesting variations. First, the entire process has been done remotely, and Carreducker have been more thorough with this than any other craftsman I’ve seen, from making instructional videos to adding more forms of measuring.
And second, the boots are being made in their ‘Bespoke Manufactured’ service, which is similar to the Blue bespoke from Stefano Bemer. The fitting and lastmaking are done as with bespoke, and the welt is hand-sewn, but the rest of the making is my machine, like a good Northampton shoe. This lowers the price and makes it easier to make more casual styles on a bespoke fit.
Lastly, I recently began the process of trying a bespoke pair of shoes with Calzoleria Carlino, the Italian maker based in Sassuolo, Modena. That too, at least at the start, will be done remotely.
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Simon Crompton, Khareem Sudlow
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
March 08, 2021BruceDayneBest artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and value. Those are ... > Read more
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Simon Crompton, Khareem Sudlow
A new customer over at the PS shop recently wrote an email to the support team that surprised me. In it he said he was ‘shocked’ that such luxurious products didn’t come in better packaging. He said he almost returned them on that basis. Now... > Read more
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Edward Sexton Offshore Bespoke suit: Review
March 03, 2021BruceDayneThis linen double-breasted suit was made by Edward Sexton under their Offshore Bespoke system. We previously covered the process, how it works and its pricing here. I was impressed by the results. It’s a very well-fitting suit, and certainly... > Read more
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Bemberg, cupro, ermezine: The guide to linings
March 01, 2021BruceDayne
“And what lining would you like in the suit?”
“Oh I don’t know, just something to match the cloth.”
This is as far as most people go with selecting the lining of their jacket or suit. And with good reason.
Coloured or patterned linings more often look cheap than they do stylish. They’re more likely to detract from the suit than enhance it.
And there is little to choose in the material the lining is made from either. Both Bemberg and ermazine work equally well, and those are used by the vast majority of tailors.
But, there is the question of having jackets unlined or partially lined. Some people like silk linings. And colours that compliment the material of a suit can add a touch of character.
So for all those that want to understand all the options, here is our latest chapter in the Suit Style series – looking at everything about linings.
Why have a lining?
The point of a lining is that it helps both donning and doffing of a suit, and then helps it move when worn.
If there is friction between the jacket or trouser, and shirt or skin underneath, it can get caught and hang awkwardly. When the tailoring has been cut precisely to effect a clean, elegant line, that’s rather a shame.
The lining also helps protect the outer layer from wear caused by the body underneath. And it is much easier to repair than the external cloth.
The major disadvantage of a lining is that it makes the jacket warmer. And a minor one is that it can make the jacket more formal.
So, the reasons for not having a lining are the opposite of all those.
If the jacket is made from a material that does not drape well anyway – like cotton. If the material is less likely to get stuck on clothing – because it’s smooth or heavy. If the material is very robust, and not in need of protection – like tweed. If the jacket is just very casual, and not cut for elegant drape. If you just like the look of a cloth lining – because it’s also more casual.
These all make a lining less important. Still, the only real reason I’d have a jacket unlined is heat – if it’s a summer piece and you need it to be cooler.
I went through a phase of wanting all my jackets quarter lined, so you could see the cloth on the inside when the jacket was opened. And I still see the appeal of that, if it’s part of the brand’s look – as with my Anglo-Italian jacket below.
But it can be annoying. It will catch now and again, and most of the time today I have a full lining in all my tailoring as a result – unless it’s specifically for summer.
Isn’t lining hot?
Having a jacket only partially lined allows body heat to escape more easily. It does make a noticeable difference in hot weather.
However, some materials are also extremely lightweight and breathable, including most wool/silk/linens. Even with the lining, they’re often cool enough unless the weather is over 35 degrees, or very humid. And there are advantages to keeping the lining: the light material will drape more easily, and is less likely to get caught.
In most temperate countries therefore, like the UK and northern Europe, you might be fine with a full lining, and prefer to give the material this support.
I also find the difference between being half lined (where everything but the lower half of the back is unlined) and quarter lined (where only the top half of the back and the sleeves are lined) to be negligible.
Also, don’t have unlined sleeves. You produce very little heat there, and it’s a real pain when getting the jacket on and off. Something I found with my Rubinacci jacket.
Trouser linings are less of an issue, and the standard is for them to be ‘half’ lined – in the front, to the knee.
Summer trousers, such as linens, are often left unlined in order to make them cooler. But again, I’d say unless you’re somewhere very hot, it won’t make a big difference.
I have also tried fully lined trousers, for extra warmth in the winter. But they are annoying when pressing the trousers, and I wouldn’t do it again unless I moved somewhere colder – like Boston or Stockholm.
What can the lining be made from?
The vast majority of suit linings are made from cupro (short for cuprammonium, also known by the brand name Bemberg) or ermazine (viscose rayon).
Both are semi-synthetics, the former being made from cotton extract and the latter from wood pulp (cellulose). Cupro is a little softer to the touch, and ermazine is tougher. Cupro is a little more breathable, but ermazine comes in a greater range of weights sand colours.
Cupro is more common in good suits in the US and Europe, while Savile Row tailors have tended to use ermazine. I’ve had many suits in both, and don’t mind either one. It’s a very small aspect of the suit.
Silk is quite different, however. It’s only used by a few of the very high-end tailors today, such as Cifonelli, as it’s at least five times as expensive as the synthetics.
Silk is derided for being less breathable and less robust than the others. Which it is; but neither are a difference I’ve ever noticed. More significant is that it has a little more friction, so is not as easy to get on and off. While on the plus side, it feels really nicer in the hand – soft and luxurious. So I’d weigh up those last two factors if you’re deciding whether to have silk or not.
I’d personally avoid heavy silks in overcoats, as I did that with my Sexton coat (above) and it proved to be too delicate. I’d also avoid any cheaper alternatives to any of these – such as acetate, which is lighter bu much more flimsy and used mostly in couture and other womenswear.
Oh, and there is plain cotton, but the only really argument for that is that it feels nicer on the skin – useful if you’re lining a blouson that you might wear with just a T-shirt, for example (see Stoffa suede jacket, below). But otherwise it has too much friction and too little strength.
What colour should the lining be?
Bright linings and strongly patterned linings always look cheap, in my opinion.
It doesn’t matter whether it’s a Paul Smith suit with football players on the inside, or a Rubinacci jacket made with a Neapolitan silk scarf (shown at bottom). At the very least they look showy, and for most people that’s not what they’re aiming for with their tailoring.
Bold linings also look cheap by association. They are often used by cheaper brands that want to distract from the poor-quality material or poor make of their suits. That also goes for coloured buttonholes and similar gimmicks.
If in doubt, always go for a matching lining. It’s what I do with 99% of my tailoring, and it’s unlikely you’ll ever regret it. I was tempted to pay an extra few hundred pounds to put silk scarves in my Rubinacci jacket years ago – it just seemed so exciting. But I’ve always been glad I didn’t.
However, if you do want to play with the lining, complimentary colours can look nice. Perhaps particularly when there’s unlikely to be coloured silk around the neck or in the breast pocket.
For complimentary colours here, think of the darker ties you might wear with the jacket or suit. So a deep purple or bottle green with navy worsted; olive or burnt orange with brown tweed. Suits in dark colours also tend to be best with rich, lustrous colours, such as purple and burgundy.
I’ve had coloured linings in a few pieces over the years, including the Rubinacci cashmere shown above (light olive green with brown) and the Pirozzi corduroy below (bottle green with tan).
If in doubt, always go with the most subtle option. Much as you might like a bold tie, you’d pick something more understated if you had to wear the same tie every day.
Other things to note with lining colours are that dark colours or patterns can show through lighter or more open-weave materials. But then it would be a poor tailor that let you walk out with a lining that did that.
And sleeve linings are traditionally white or white with a stripe – the pattern sometimes being a trademark of the tailoring house.
“The biggest trend in the past 30 years has been increasing demand for quality,” says Jonathan Bernstein of Bernstein & Banleys, The Lining Company, who contributed to this article.
Jonathan supplies linings and buttons to most Savile Row tailors. We profiled B&B previously here, and recommended them for anyone trying to source their own buttons.
“Cotton linings are a little more popular, as they can give something a vintage look. And you get more polyester stretch lining in womenswear. But really, the biggest thing has been increased quality, perhaps as the number of cheaper tailors has reduced.”
Nice to know people are spending on quality, though sad to know the reason. In any case, Jonathan’s ermezine taffeta in plain colours continues to be a best seller, apparently, so most men are clearly making the right decision and eschewing flashy options.
Stay safe everyone.
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Pyjamas and working from home: Baudoin & Lange Lunes
February 26, 2021BruceDayneBest stay-at-home wear: Baudoin & Lange Runners-up: Luca Faloni, Sunspel PS readers voted Baudoin & Lange the best for ‘stay at home’ wear in 2021 Awards, principally based on their Sagans or Sagan Lune shoes. Fortunately I couldn’t agree... > Read more
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Simon Crompton, Khareem Sudlow
Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury
February 24, 2021BruceDayneBest e-commerce: The Armoury Runners-up: Mr Porter, Luca Faloni Mark Cho and I have been playing e-mail tag for a while. First he had to move the call, then I did, and when we finally connect, he’s in the back of a cab on his way home. “S... > Read more
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Why have these bespoke shoes aged so well?
February 22, 2021BruceDayneWhat shoes do we still find ourselves wearing after 10 years, and why? I find this is mostly about making sensible, functional choices; then a little bit about quality and fit; and almost nothing to do with bevelled waists or stitches per i... > Read more
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