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Watch Snob on Required Reading for Watch Lovers

That’s Nice, but ...

Thank you for your weekly writings which have helped me very much on my continuing journey to empty the family savings. Your guidance has been invaluable, but I admit with some shame that while I have not bought the watches I have asked you about previously, each of your answers has helped me think about why I wanted the watch and to look further into my own progress in this ridiculously destructive addition.

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I would like to ask your guidance again on two aspects of watch appreciation. First, could you recommend a good book on the history of watches? I read [the] reviews and see statements describing a movement which takes inspiration from, say, pocket watches. I'm trying to gain an understanding of how design choices made by various watchmakers have been historically influenced, so, for example, when I look at a 3/4 plate, I would understand why it was preferred to a completely open movement.

Second, I would like to gain knowledge on the appreciation of dials. Questions like: are the sub-dials too close together? Is there too much negative space? Why a sector dial? Just as art appreciation classes would provide an understanding of techniques used to convey certain effects and emotions, I'd like to be able to understand how to more constructively consider the makeup of a dial.

I feel that the above would really help towards understanding my own feelings towards why certain watches evoke love rather than a clinical 'that's nice, but ...' feeling.

There have been many, many books written on the history of watches and watchmaking but surprisingly, in the last couple of decades there have been few serious attempts to improve on some of the classics in the field. There are, thanks to the increase in popularity of wristwatches, a number of books on specific brands or types of wristwatches but the general intellectual lassitude of those who claim to be interested in watches, is shown by the equally general lack of knowledge of, and disinterest in, horology prior to the wristwatch.

I would recommend, in no particular order, “Watches,” by Cecil Clutton and George Daniels, “The History Of Clocks And Watches,” by Eric Bruton, “Watchmaking,” by George Daniels (which will give you a wealth of information on craftsmanship and techniques in the production of a hand-made watch, and which is an invaluable technical reference) and for a general history of clocks, watches and other timekeeping devices, the really wonderful and under-appreciated “A Revolution In Time,” by David Landes. Those four books alone will give you a breadth of knowledge and an appreciation of the depth of history of mankind’s horological enterprises, which is unknown to the unwashed herds of so-called enthusiasts with more money than sense, who think the world begins and ends with Paul Newman Daytonas, and who have about as much capacity for independent thought as a lemming rushing to the sea.

On the subject of dials, and how to judge them from a design standpoint, I can think of no single specific book that treats the subject with any depth and intelligence. 

The Holy (Horological) Grail

I have been a long-time reader and find myself lacking in direction for the first time in a while. My daily driver is a Rolex GMT II 116710LN, which I have owned for years and love. I also had the recent fortune of acquiring a PP Aquanaut 5168G-001, which I would consider a Grail watch and could not be more ecstatic about. That leaves me with my third notable piece, an AP ROO Diver 15710 (black dial), which sits somewhere between the previous two (a flashy sports watch on a rubber strap) that I fear will see little wear with the arrival of the Aquanaut and is unlikely to hold value over time.

I think it is time to let it go, but am at a loss for what would best round out a three-watch rotation given the first two staples. I have never owned or seriously looked at a dress watch before (though have recently taken notice of the JLC Master Calendar and Ultra Thin Moon). Trading it for a Hulk crossed my mind, but I fear that it too is a bit of a fad. I'm hoping something will bring some excitement and intrigue in the $10-15,000 range.

I think you are quite right in feeling that either the Offshore or the Aquanaut are redundant. The question of the Offshore is an interesting one. There are as I am sure you know, very few watches which actually do hold their value over time and while it is not an unreasonable hope, it is generally not a reasonable expectation; you have in the Aquanaut and the GMT Master, two watches which are very much the exception rather than the rule. Simply because two watches fall into the same general category, need not be a reason to make yourself choose one or the other, of course — presumably you bought the Offshore because you found it an attractive watch and enjoy wearing it. 

Of course, if you are no longer terribly enamored of it, and you feel the sensible thing to do is to sell it to make buying another watch a bit less impractical financially, then de-acquisitioning it may very well be the logical course to follow.

You are quite correct in thinking that a dress watch is missing in your collection. I’m not sure whether or not a thin, gold, classically beautiful watch with a flawlessly finished movement is something in which you would have an interest, but if so I cannot recommend the Lange & Sohne Saxonia 37mm, highly enough. You already have two steel watches which loudly announce their luxury status, and you sound as if you have a sneaking suspicion that you are ready for something which is not more of the same. The Lange, albeit it is at the top of your budget, would mark a new era for you and represents a real opportunity to broaden your horizons — horologically speaking.

Let’s Keep It Real, and Public

We write to you, and so please rest assured only to you — I say this because I somehow feel that is relevant to you, on the behest of a Philanthropic initiative founded by watch enthusiasts from the motion picture — and music industries.

We very much like to ask you a relatively simple question, the answer to which will largely determine our course of action viz a project we just know you'll appreciate. If we make the right decision many watch enthusiasts globally will celebrate we think.

Would we be allowed to proceed via this channel or do you prefer an alternate email address to discuss details of your possible involvement?

Greetings, mysterious interlocutor. I must respectfully decline to answer your query in private, intriguing though it might be, and I will give you my reasons. The overarching nature of the Watch Snob is that questions are asked, and my opinion given, in public. There are at any given time a certain number of those who read my little weekly column on a regular basis, who would wish me to give them counsel in private, or over the telephone or what have you. This as you may imagine, could easily become an irksomely time-consuming affair and so I restrict myself to answering a couple — or three — interestingly put questions per week.

The second and perhaps more important reason I must decline, is that this for me is a hobby. An avocation. I do not collect, read about, look at, research and try to enjoy watches because I in any way care about being an influencer, or influential; I do not trade on the Internet or elsewhere under another name; I am not in the watch business on any level nor have I any desire to be. 

I enjoy having an opportunity to express my views under the cloak of anonymity, and to consult on projects of commercial potential, is well outside the realm of what I consider, for lack of a better word, fun. I appreciate your interest (and yours is far from the only such request I have entertained over the years) but I am determined not to let what has for most of my life, been a pleasant distraction from the moil and toil of the world, become yet another burdensome obligation.

Send the Watch Snob your questions at editorial@askmen.com or ask him a question on Instagram with the #AskMenWatchSnob hashtag.

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Watch Snob, Khareem Sudlow