Gucci Unveils ‘Who Is Sabato De Sarno?’ Film

March 15, 2024BruceDayne

Helping Global Entrepreneurs Scale Businesses That Shape the World wegg® podcast with Allison Maslan on March 15, 2024

March 15, 2024BruceDayne

TikTok Advertisers Will Look to Rivals if US Senate Moves Ahead on Ban

March 15, 2024BruceDayne

Advertisers who turn to TikTok to market to young consumers are preparing contingency plans with social media rivals in the event the short-form video app is sold or banned in the US, but they are waiting for signs of Senate action before shifting marketing budgets.

House Republicans voted Wednesday to force Chinese tech company ByteDance to sell TikTok in roughly six months, or face a ban, one of the most significant challenges to the company that has long faced questions about national security concerns.

The White House has urged the Senate to pass the bill and US President Joe Biden has pledged to sign it.

Meta’s Reels and YouTube’s Shorts, TikTok’s biggest competitors, are set to be the beneficiaries of advertising budgets if the app is banned, ad experts said.

TikTok did not respond to a request for comment. The company has said it will exercise its legal rights to prevent a ban, which it says would “take billions of dollars out of the pockets of creators and small businesses.”

“The momentum around this legislation is greater than in previous national efforts to curtail or sell off TikTok, and advertisers are keeping a sharp eye on developments,” said Jasmine Enberg, principal analyst at research firm Insider Intelligence.

If the bill progresses, “it would put us more on alert,” said Jack Johnston, senior social innovation director at Tinuiti, a digital marketing firm that has worked with brands like Revlon and E.l.f. cosmetics.

Still three digital marketing firms, including Tinuiti, told Reuters they are advising clients to keep a “business as usual” approach to TikTok, noting the viral app has survived multiple previous attempts to restrict its availability in the US, including an executive order from then-President Donald Trump in 2020 to ban it.

While advertising budgets are planned months in advance, brands can quickly place or pull ads on social media to respond to events.

Videos on TikTok can quickly set off new trends in music, fashion and beauty, and brands have flocked to the app in hopes of becoming part of major cultural moments. Insider Intelligence estimates TikTok will generate $8.66 billion in US ad revenue this year.

The high stakes involved with banning a major app like TikTok make an outright ban unlikely, one digital ad firm told clients on Wednesday, declining to be named to discuss the conversations.

A sale of the app is more likely, and the roughly six-month timeline would help brands prepare, Johnston said.

If the app is sold during the holiday season, a critical sales period for many companies, “then there is a little more urgency for brands that rely on this time of year for a bulk of their revenue,” Johnston added.

Even if marketing budgets are redirected to Reels and Shorts, there’s no guarantee the competing features could perform the same as TikTok.

“While a good portion [of TikTok users] are also active on other platforms, there is a healthy chunk that use TikTok as their primary media consumption channel. Reels and Shorts are the two logical offerings out there that most closely match TikTok’s content format, but it doesn’t mean that this is where users will flock to necessarily,” Johnston said.

By Sheila Dang in Austin; editing by Peter Henderson and David Gregorio

Learn more:

The US TikTok Ban Clears Its First Hurdle. What’s Next?

The US House of Representatives approved a bill that could ultimately lead to a ban of the app, but its path forward remains far from certain.

DMTBeautySpot

via https://dmtbeautyspot.com

Reuters, DMT.NEWS, DMT BeautySpot,

DMTBeautySpot featured Khareem Sudlow

What Is It About Celine Beauty?

March 15, 2024BruceDayne

When we broke the news earlier this week that Hedi Slimane was launching Celine Beauté, my inbox, text messages and DMs were immediately flooded:

“Have you seen any of the product?” “Bring all the comps tomorrow,” “Who is doing the PR?” The comments on The Business of Beauty’s social media pages were equally fervent.

At a time when nearly every fashion business is hoping to launch a beauty enterprise of their own — Dolce & Gabbana, Kering, Richemont — or partner with a licensing company for a makeup or skincare collection — Prada, Miu Miu, Marni, Etro — I wondered why the response for Celine’s offering was so … enthusiastic.

First off, it seems as though Celine is taking more of the curated Hermès route with coordinated, pulsed collections than launching everything at once. The house is starting with a single red lipstick, Rouge Triomphe, this autumn before offering a complete, 15-piece lineup of satin lipsticks in January 2025. Each season that follows will be dedicated to a category from lip balms and mascaras to loose powders and eye pencils, and will tie back to runway collections.

That last bit is critical to why people are so excited. The runway connection ensures each drop will evoke Slimane. Since he became artistic, creative and image director at the French house, the designer has launched menswear (2018) and fragrances (2019), filling out the Celine universe. And it has become a megabrand in the making. According to sources, Celine is closing in on €3 billion ($3.27 billion) in annual revenue. Beauty is an extension of that, and we can already see touches of the fashion line, including Celine’s interlocked Cs, imprinted on the upcoming Rouge Triomphe lipstick and eye pencil caps.

That approach will draw a distinction between Celine’s beauty offerings and lines from rival fashion brands, as products from licensing partners often lack cohesion. Prada’s new and improved Prada Beauty line with L’Oréal looks almost as clinical as L’Oréal Paris’ products versus the covetable collections that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons present on the runway. Meanwhile, since Alessandro Michele left Gucci, Gucci’s makeup line, which was created with Coty, feels dated and disjointed from Sabato De Sarno’s designs.

But that doesn’t mean every fashion label can successfully pull off their own in-house beauty brand.

L’Oréal, Coty, Interparfums and the like are experts at beauty — they have decades of product development experience and marketing knowhow. No matter how much fashion executives want to say beauty and fashion are the same, selling a lipstick is far different from selling a bag or a couture dress. Fashion labels that are entering beauty on their own must assemble the right team, with the right experience and, crucially, the right amount of investment.

That’s why sources have told me Kering is taking its time putting its infrastructure in place to better incubate its own beauty labels, and why its first move in the space was an acquisition (Creed) versus an in-house line.

Celine is intent on creating a world for its customers across fashion, fragrance and now cosmetics. So far, Slimane’s vision across the house is working. And LVMH has plenty of beauty expertise, with learnings from Dior Beauty, Benefit and Sephora right at its fingertips. The luxury group also has a new secret weapon in beauty as former L’Oréal USA chief executive Stéphane Rinderknech was named chairman and CEO of the beauty division at LVMH last year.

Here’s betting a rush for Rouge Triomphe come September.

Here are my top picks from our insight and analysis on beauty and wellness this week:

1. Lightning in a Bottle: Tapping Into the Niche Fragrance Boom

With independent perfume on a hot streak for investments and acquisitions, the fragrance market is only growing larger — and more competitive. Here’s what steps emerging brands need to take as they expand.

2. Can Matilda Djerf’s Influence Translate to Beauty Sales?

Matilda Djerf is launching a hair care brand: Djerf Avenue Beauty. (Djerf Avenue Beauty)

The Scandinavian influencer known for setting global hair trends unveils her first beauty venture.

3. What Blink-And-You’ll-Miss-It Beauty Trends Mean in the Long Term

A collage of beauty trends — Beauty brands need to strike when the iron's hot. (BoF Team)

Beauty trends are getting more ephemeral, and much, much weirder. But behind these fleeting moments might be more macro movements.

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY NEWS IN BRIEF

Hedi Slimane launches Celine beauty line. The designer is making a foray into cosmetics at the LVMH-owned megabrand-in-making. Celine’s Rouge Triomphe lipstick will debut in the autumn, with a full range of 15 satin-finished colours slated for January 2025.

The Body Shop files for bankruptcy in the US and Canada. The company filed for Chapter 7 insolvency putting about 400 jobs at risk including those in a distribution centre that still holds millions of dollars-worth of stock. In Canada, 33 of the 105 shops have closed, with the loss of more than 200 jobs.

CVC’s beauty chain Douglas sets terms for a $991 million IPO. The shares are being marketed at €26 to €30 each. The offering seeks to raise about €850 million for the company through the sale of new stock.

Lilly partners with Amazon to deliver Zepbound and other drugs. The drugmaker said prescriptions sent to LillyDirect Pharmacy Solutions would now be delivered by either Amazon Pharmacy or Truepill, depending on the patient’s insurance coverage and other factors.

LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders’ documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence.

DMTBeautySpot

via https://dmtbeautyspot.com

Priya Rao, DMT.NEWS, DMT BeautySpot,

DMTBeautySpot featured Khareem Sudlow

How does Paris compare to Pitti? Pendleton, FrizmWorks, Viberg and more

March 15, 2024BruceDayne

How does Paris compare to Pitti? Pendleton, FrizmWorks, Viberg and more

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Boots on display at Viberg, at Man/Woman; above, Welcome Edition

This past January, after Pitti, I went to see the equivalent shows in Paris for the first time. I’d never been before and was interested to see how it compared to Pitti in terms of style, atmosphere and the brands.

The style, to be honest, was a disappointment. I had high hopes because - as far as I understood - this was a real trade show with buyers meeting brands and writing orders, as opposed to the circus Pitti had become.

But the other thing about Paris is that the brands are much more casual - more workwear, more fashion - and there is essentially no tailoring. I’m told Milan is better, and Unica (the cloth trade show) is certainly good. But I have to say it made me appreciate Pitti. There may be some silly peacocks around, but it really is the last place you see that much good tailoring.

The brands, however, were really interesting. A lot of the casual makers we cover on PS don’t show at Pitti, but they do here - at the biggest show Man/Woman, the newer Welcome Edition, or in their own studios.

And even brands that are at Pitti often have bigger set-ups in Paris. Coherence may be at Pitti, for example, but in Paris they have an entire apartment. Some brands are also moving - Drake’s now shows in Paris and not Pitti.

The bright range of hoodies at Velva Sheen

But let’s back up a second, for readers that are unfamiliar with all this industry stuff.

Pitti Uomo is a trade show, where brands and manufacturers show off their products so shops (eg department stores) can see them and decide whether to place orders.

These orders are delivered several months later, so brands at Pitti in January were showing designs for Autumn/Winter 2024. These might be delivered in July, in order to go on sale in September.

There are lots of these trade shows, though less than there used to be, and some are more public than others.

The most important ones in Europe in terms of business take place in Paris and Milan, after the fashion shows. The designer brands that have shown on the runways have showrooms afterwards where buyers come to place orders. At the same time, other non-fashion brands take part in their own trade shows - such as Man/Woman - or have showrooms.

This isn’t the kind of thing where influencers can just rock up and take pictures of themselves. There is no big public arena; the showrooms are appointment-only. But, if you’re a journalist it is a great way to get to know brands.

For example, Meg Company - which runs Yuketen, Chamula, Monitaly and Epperson Mountaineering - has a showroom where you can get time with the founder Yuki (below), talking to him about his crafted menswear in the same way I’ve always done with brands on the stands at Pitti.

Good Art, the Californian jewellery brand with its own forge in LA, is here and nowhere else. So are lots of other workwear brands such as Stevenson Overall, The Flat Head and Viberg.

It’s not all workwear though - there are also brands like 11.11, who I knew through their work with Stoffa, or fellow Indian brand Kardo. There are outdoor brands like Crescent Down Works and Wythe, and more familiar ones like Lavenham and Le Mont St Michel.

With these kinds of heritage brands, you quickly get a sense of which direction they’re going. For example, Lavenham was interesting for the archive-inspired pieces they’re bringing out, in heavier weights (below). Whereas Mont St Michel had little of their characteristic cotton chores, and quite a lot of more fashion stuff that falls into the category of ‘brand extension’.

Nice colours and heavier nylons at Lavenham

Pendleton were in their own showroom, sharing with a few brands including the Korean outdoors brand FrizmWorks.

The latter are impressive for their value for money (though it is all made in China) but Pendleton were a little disappointing. The distinctive blankets were hanging on the back of the room, but they use much softer, lighter fabrics now.

I’ll do a separate post next week talking about four of our favourite brands we saw. That was the point of the visit, and being able to speak to all the founders in person does make a big difference to understanding the product.

I will go to Paris again, as it was fun and useful, but perhaps when I have another excuse to be there. Next time we might try Milan, and see what that’s like.

As ever, if anyone has any questions about these brands or the ones we'll feature next week, do let us know. In the past readers have asked questions about many of them, but we haven’t been able to give any detailed answers.