DMT Beauty Transformation

The 30 Most Popular Men’s Fragrance Brands

December 02, 2023BruceDayne

Tod’s Appoints Matteo Tamburini as Creative Director

December 01, 2023BruceDayne

Tod’s has hired a new designer, Matteo Tamburini, to serve as creative director for both its women’s and men’s collections, the Italian luxury brand said in a statement Friday.

Tamburini, who is joining the brand from Kering’s Bottega Veneta, will show his first collection during the next Milan womenswear week in February.

Tamburini joined Bottega Veneta in 2017 and has climbed the ranks of the brand’s womenswear studio during the tenures of three designers: Tomas Maier, Daniel Lee and Matthieu Blazy.

“Matteo Tamburini is a talented creative. His modern vision of high quality and Italian lifestyle will definitely bring an added value to our brand,” Diego Della Valle, president and CEO of Tod’s Group, said.

In his new role at Tods, Tamburini succeeds Walter Chiapponi — another Bottega Veneta alum who left Tods in July for Blumarine.

Tamburini hails from Urbino, a walled city in the Marche region where Tod’s headquarters and factories are located.

“I am honoured and excited to join the Tod’s family and become part of a brand that is so closely tied to my origins and memories. I identify myself with the brand’s values and the continuous pursuit of high quality and style,” Tamburini said in the statement.

Tod’s Group comprises Roger Vivier and Hogan in addition to its namesake brand, while the owners the Della Valle family also controls Schiaparelli through a private holding company. Tod’s Group sales rose 14 percent to €828 million ($901.8 million) in the first nine months of the year.

Designer changes are in vogue this fall. Since September, major debuts have included the first collections by Gucci’s Sabato de Sarno and Tom Ford’s Peter Hawkings, while high-profile exits included Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton and Chloé's Gabriela Hearst.

Tod’s statement came the same afternoon that LVMH’s Givenchy announced it was parting ways with American designer Matthew Williams after three and a half years.

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Robert Williams, DMT.NEWS, DMT BeautySpot,

DMTBeautySpot featured Khareem Sudlow

Pangaia CEO Exits Role

December 01, 2023BruceDayne

Krishna Nikhil has stepped down as CEO of Pangaia to return to his home town of Toronto for family reasons, the company said Friday.

The former consultant and Ssense CMO joined the business just over 18 months ago, with a mandate to deliver on ambitions to establish the pandemic-era success story as a materials science powerhouse. He remains an advisor to the company, while CFO and co-founder Nathalie Longuet has stepped into the chief executive role, Pangaia said.

The change comes at an uncertain time for the eco-innovation business. The company emerged as one of fashion’s hottest start-ups in 2020, selling brightly coloured tracksuits that were a perfect fit for the lockdown moment. But it has struggled to sustain that commercial momentum or prove out its broader strategic vision of leveraging its products to develop a more disruptive and lucrative business selling climate-friendly material innovations to the rest of the industry.

The company’s challenges were already evident when Nikhil joined as its first ever CEO in March of 2022. After recording an operating profit of $16.6 million in 2020 (its first year in operation), the company swung to a loss of $41.5 million in 2021, according to public accounts filed this February.

Efforts to optimise the company’s digital platform and expand its footprint in stores like Selfridges, Galeries Lafayette and La Rinascente helped put the direct-to-consumer brand back on track for profitability this year, the company told BoF in March. It also put in place plans to heavily cut back staff and move its headquarters from London to Switzerland this Spring, according to an internal memo seen by BoF in April.

The company said it is progressing well towards its financial targets for the year and that it continues to work with Nikhil on various initiatives.

Learn more:

Can Pangaia Be More Than a Loungewear Brand?

After swinging to an operating loss of $41 million in 2021, the buzzy fashion start-up has stabilised and remains focused on its ambition to build a materials science business.

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Sarah Kent, DMT.NEWS, DMT BeautySpot,

DMTBeautySpot featured Imran Amed

The BoF Podcast | Leena Nair on Leading Chanel Into the Future

December 01, 2023BruceDayne

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Background:

At every juncture of her extraordinary professional journey, Leena Nair has authored a series of ‘firsts.’ Growing up in her home country of India, she was part of the first cohort of female students at her school, at Unilever she was the first woman to lead global human resources, responsible for 150,000 employees and in January 2022 she became Chanel’s first-ever global CEO of Indian-origin — making her the only woman of colour leading a major global luxury brand.

Nair is leaning on the lessons from her people-centric career to lead Chanel into the future as the post-pandemic luxury boom comes to an end. “I really believe if you look after people, their growth and development, their dreams and aspirations, they will look after the business. They will help you with ideas and really care about the institution they’re a part of,” says Nair.

Nair sat down for her first public talk with BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed at BoF VOICES 2023 to share her vision for Chanel, philosophies on leadership and advice for women who feel like outsiders.

Key Insights:

Growing up in her home country of India, Nair frequently battled gendered stereotypes. “After a point I had to stop listening. … Gender roles were so strong. … One of the most [common] comments I would get is, ‘You’re so talented. You should have been a boy,’” she recalls.
Acknowledging that she is a fashion-industry outsider, Nair is conscious of fostering a supportive and inclusive work environment. “Lift as you climb. … I feel the responsibility of making it easier for those who come after me,” she explains.
Nair intentionally welcomes insights from diverse perspectives. “I really feel the days of the superhero leader with all the answers is way behind us. … How can one individual have the answers?” she asks. “Collective problem solving, collective creation, collective ideation … is really important to me.”
Sharing her vision for Chanel, Nair outlined her three pillars for the brand’s future. “One is to have a positive impact in the world. … The second is, in the world of AI, to be relentless in protecting human creation, human creators, human relationships. And third, to always be part of what’s next, to shape what’s coming.”
Nair’s advice to young women finding their voice in whichever industry they are drawn to is straightforward: “Be unafraid to try and express your ambition and what you want to do. … Be intentional to say I want this, because if you can’t express ambition in those words to yourself, to your CEO, to your mentor, to someone who supports you, how can it ever be translated into reality?”

Additional Resources:

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Imran Amed, DMT.NEWS, DMT BeautySpot,

The 30 Most Popular Men’s Fragrance Brands

1. Chanel

2. Dior

3. Giorgio Armani

4. Tom Ford

5. Creed

6. Yves Saint Laurent (YSL)

7. Hugo Boss

8. Versace

9. Ralph Lauren

10. Bvlgari

11. Gucci

12. Prada

13. Calvin Klein

14. Burberry

15. Issey Miyake

16. Yves Rocher

17. Hermès

18. John Varvatos

19. Dolce & Gabbana

20. Acqua di Parma

21. Jo Malone

22. Montblanc

23. Maison Margiela

24. Amouage

25. Tiffany & Co.

26. Byredo

27. Ermenegildo Zegna

28. Molton Brown

29. Penhaligon's

30. Carolina Herrera

Tod’s Appoints Matteo Tamburini as Creative Director

Pangaia CEO Exits Role

The BoF Podcast | Leena Nair on Leading Chanel Into the Future

Background:

Key Insights:

Additional Resources:

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