The arrival of summer always brings the sudden urge to throw our laptops and run outside, spending as much of our free time in the sun as possible. Even the indoorsiest among us would be so inclined to venture outdoors, to be up for anything that doesn’t involve being confined to the walls of their homes.
But when it comes to any type of outdoor activity, choosing the right shoe is crucial — and in most situations, a towering platform or heeled mule just won’t do. Enter the “dad sandal,” a reliable standby for all things outdoorsy that’s not only practical, but undeniably comfortable. They boast all the appeal of the chunky, “ugly-cute” styles that have had a stronghold on footwear trends over the last few years, all while offering the support you (and your arches) need.
We admit: Styling "dad sandals" — with their busy prints and in-your-face colors and countless straps — can seem intimidating at first. But this season’s iterations lean more chic than “dad." See: Chaco's summer lineup. That's why we plucked five styles and pieced together cute-but-practical outfits for whatever your summer plans may be, whether that involves some light walking or, well, climbing up the side of a mountain.
Consider this your guide on how to seamlessly integrate dad sandals into all of your outdoorsy summer ‘fits.
Hitting the trails
A dad sandal is a less clunky (and sweaty) alternative to a classic hiking boot, making them a solid choice for summer hikes. These boast adjustable straps to ensure the most secure fit, while the supportive sole will keep your feet in tip-top condition no matter how many miles you trek. And while this style is peak dad, the print makes for a trendy addition to your hiking ensemble: Pair with a sleek workout set, a bold fannypack to hold your essentials, and don’t forget to bring a packable, waterproof jacket — you never know when you might run into sudden rainy weather.
When checking a new city off of your bucket list, you’re bound to do a serious amount of walking. Paired with sweltering summer temps, things are likely to get sweaty, too — may we suggest a breezy linen set that’ll keep you nice and cool? Footwear-wise, we recommend having some fun in the print department, especially if the rest of your ‘fit is neutral. Equipped with an extra-cushy sole, these neon sandals will keep sore feet at bay as you exceed your usual step count. Throw in some chic accessories, and you have yourself a look that’ll seamlessly take you from sightseeing to dinner.
Crap Eyewear The Full Bloom, $, available at Crap Eyewear
Missoma Squiggle Wavy Large Hoop Earrings, $, available at Missoma
Vacationing by the beach
If your summer plans entail vacationing in a far-off, tropical destination, then chances are, you’ll be spending most of your time at the beach (or poolside…or both). That said, a lightweight slide you can easily kick off is a key item to add to your packing list. A neutral-hued style will match anything and everything you squeeze into your suitcase, including a printed bikini or a vibrant coverup. This pair features a soft sole and arch support, perfect for a shoreside stroll after a quick dip.
Chaco Women's Chillos Slide, $, available at Chaco
Faithfull the Brand Marzia Printed Recycled Triangle Bikini, $, available at Net-A-Porter
Camping plans? Whether you’re roughing it out in the woods or opting for a cushier glamping experience, a chunky all-terrain sandal with excellent grip is imperative for exploring your surroundings. Pair with comfy clothing made for moving, a backpack that’ll hold all your gear, and a hat for extra sun protection. Don’t forget to pack something warm and cozy for nighttime — it’s bound to get chilly, even around the campfire. And if you really want to lean into the dad style trend, try throwing some soft, fuzzy socks into the mix.
Chaco Women's Lowdown Sandal, $, available at Chaco
Everlane The Seamless Bike Short, $, available at Everlane
Everlane The Track Jogger, $, available at Everlane
& Other Stories Boxy Pile Jacket, $, available at & Other Stories
The North Face Borealis Backpack, $, available at The North Face
Urban Outfitters Safari Pocket Bucket Hat, $, available at Urban Outfitters
Picnicking in the park
Whether you’re posting up in an urban oasis or somewhere with rougher ground (a national park, perhaps?) picnic dressing should prioritize comfort as much as style, especially when it comes to your shoes. A dad sandal with a lugged outsole will prevent you from slipping should you encounter some mud, while a cushioned sole will keep your feet happy as you hunt for the ideal spot to set up shop. Pair yours with a breezy sundress, a tote (for carrying snacks, of course), and some summery accessories, and you’ll have yourself the perfect picnic ensemble — one that’s cute and practical.
With a year like 2020 behind us, we’re looking ahead to 2021 as a much-needed reset. This extends to our wardrobes, too. Enter the capsule closet — a curated, minimal collection consisting of versatile wardrobe staples that you can easily mix and match — that has taken over since the pandemic took hold.
The concept is nothing new. In fact, the term “capsule wardrobe” was first coined by former London boutique owner Susie Faux in the 1970s — referring to a collection of essential clothing items that don’t go out of fashion and can easily be paired with seasonal pieces. But as we collectively navigated the highs and lows (well, mostly lows) of 2020, I noticed that it was catching on more than ever; not only did I personally turn my current closet into a capsule wardrobe but, according to my feed, so did many of my peers. With nowhere to go and nothing to do, this past year was the perfect opportunity to declutter our wardrobes — the first step of building a curated closet — but also to completely rethink how we dress.
“We’re spending an abundance of time in our homes, and with the immense multitasking our new normal requires, getting dressed has become a secondary thought for many of us,” says Kate Bellman, women’s fashion managing editor at Nordstrom. “Despite that, we still want to look polished and feel our best, and capsule wardrobes can make it easier to put head-to-toe looks together.”
As we go through this new year, the concept will only continue to get more popular, thanks to both a growing collective interest in sustainable shopping habits as well as our basic psychological needs. Read on to learn more.
Why Are Capsule Closets So Popular Right Now?
2020 caused a major shift in how we view and consume fashion. The new decade kicked off with the world in literal flames, bringing more attention to the climate crisis of which the fashion industry is a major contributor. While the sustainability movement in fashion has been gaining traction for years, the pandemic accelerated the overall idea of consuming less. Given that creating a capsule wardrobe typically involves Marie Kondo-ing your current collection and rebuilding it with pieces you’ll cherish for years (or even decades) to come, it’s no wonder that the practice took off.
“The classic foundations offer both longevity and versatility, which are perfect for our new lifestyle.”
Kate Bellman, women’s fashion managing editor at Nordstrom
Charlotte Warburton, the founder of tbc, a London-based styling agency that focuses on minimalism and essential wardrobe staples, believes that the pandemic has been a moment of realization for fashion lovers. “Although it’s nice to dabble with trending items, what we actually wear day-to-day and need are the basics for our wardrobe (and our lives). We need to buy better and collate a stronger collection of essential wardrobe styles that actually last with wear.”
This doesn’t mean leaving fashion trends behind altogether, but, rather, that we’re only opting for the ones that suit our current at-home lifestyle and mindset. “While many are embracing the capsule wardrobe in the traditional sense — classic, versatile pieces in a sophisticated, neutral palette — many customers are also building their wardrobe simply based on the items that bring them joy,” says Bellman. “For example, many are testing out the romantic trend with statement-making floral tops, voluminous sleeves, or high necklines — perfect for the new above-the-keyboard digital world.”
It’s known that what we wear can influence our psychological state. Vice versa, how we’re impacted by what’s happening in the world can influence what we choose to put on. With the pandemic making it impossible to ignore fashion waste any longer and causing many to lose jobs and financial stability, shoppers are being more thoughtful about their consumption and spending. “We’re already fraught with anxiety and, most importantly, uncertainty,” says fashion psychologist Dr. Dawnn Karen. “What we’re now dressing for is safety, sustainability, and functionality. Safety and functionality are paramount, and with that comes sustainability by default, because we’re not shopping.” Not as much as we used to, at least: “We’re being much more conscious of our impact on the environment.”
Our wardrobe needs have changed, too, with many currently working from home and staying indoors on the weekend. “Our relationship with clothing has evolved beyond I’m wearing this because I have to go to work, or I have to go to brunch, or I have to go visit my parents for the holidays,” she adds. “Now, we’re wearing something because we want to feel good in it. We want to improve and illustrate our moods.”
Karen also credits “repetitious wardrobe complex” — the idea of repeating outfits or a color/color scheme, a central part of a capsule closet, to increase productivity and maintain your mood — to the rise of the trend. Simply put, having an edited closet of essentials, and wearing the same things on repeat, takes the day-to-day stress out of getting dressed. (Sounds about right to me, who has worn nothing but crewnecks and jeans for the past year.) While this method of simplification also worked in a pre-pandemic world, back when we worked in offices five days a week or had a slew of IRL events to attend, for many, it took losing that to realize that it’s the same 10 (or, according to Warburton, 27 pieces) things that they wear on repeat.
“We’re now dressing for safety, sustainability, and functionality.”
DR. DAWNN KAREN, fashion psychologist
Karen adds that the act of creating a capsule closet has its own benefits, too. “Decluttering and reorganizing can give you a sense of control,” she says. “It grounds you in a world that is fully, fully ungrounded.” And with no sense of normalcy to come for the foreseeable future, the capsule wardrobe trend isn’t going to fade out anytime soon. “We don’t know what’s happening tomorrow. On a micro-level — near us, right in our vicinity — or at a macro-level, just seeing the news, we’re being impacted. A way of gaining some sense of control is to declutter and reorganize our closets.”
Are Capsule Closets Here To Stay?
Will we see capsule closets continue to take off? According to Bellman, yes. Even before “COVID-19” or “quarantine” were part of our daily vocabulary, the fashion industry itself has already been pivoting “We have absolutely seen a shift towards investment pieces; however, the shift aligns seamlessly with current fashion trends over the past few seasons,” she says. “Fashion has been celebrating the familiar with elevated essentials such as a luxe cashmere sweater, a polished white shirt, or a timeless trench, to name a few. These classic foundations offer both longevity and versatility, which are perfect for our new lifestyle.”
Warburton has seen this shift in her clients, who turn to her to scale back and rebuild their wardrobes: “I’ve found them looking to refresh, strip back, and reset; collating a collection of clothing that they actually wear and being more conscious about where they’re spending money, investing in items that will last.”
“The pandemic has been a reset button to the industry that was very much needed.”
Charlotte Warburton, founder of tbc
Bellman agrees that the pandemic has sparked a larger movement in how we dress and shop. “People have been using this time at home to clean out, refine, and build their perfect wardrobe. While many are embracing a capsule wardrobe, people are spending more time in their closets overall and are further defining their style by curating the pieces and aesthetic that work best for them. Whether that’s investing in a few key versatile pieces or building upon their favorites, we can expect the trend to continue on.”
There has also been a widespread change in how we approach fashion and consumption as a whole, with sustainability at the forefront. “I believe the pandemic has been a reset button to the industry that was very much needed, especially when it comes down to the likes of fast fashion,” says Warburton. “It has made us realize what we actually need and wear. I hope in the post-pandemic world we all might just be a little more conscious of how and what we spend our money on within the industry.”
Karen echoes that. “I don’t think it’s going to be about how many clothes you can buy, but more about where you get your pieces from. Who is the brand? What conscious aspects does it have to offer — is it ethical manufacturing [or an equally sustainable aspect]?” she says. “I do think we’ll be more eco-conscious in the future, post-pandemic.”
Ready to create a capsule wardrobe of your own? Check out our guide to building a sustainable collectionhere.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Like many people during the pandemic-induced shelter-in-place orders, I turned to improving my living space with all of the free time I suddenly found myself with. While many looked to revamping their at-home workspaces or repainting their living room, I cleaned out my clutter-filled closet — and then turned it into a capsule wardrobe.
As a writer that’s been covering fashion trends for years, shopping is not only my favorite pastime but also basically part of my job. Over the years, though, I had managed to collect so much clothing that it was causing me to feel like I was drowning in my own closet. And so, confined to the walls of my apartment, I decided it was time to give my wardrobe a makeover.
While I’ve always tried to keep sustainability in mind when shopping, by buying from ethical brands and shopping secondhand, I was still guilty of making a few fast fashion purchases each season. I often made impulse buys on a whim, which led to a closet full of clothing and accessories I wore once or, worse, never at all. With the pandemic, this became only more apparent: As I wore my new uniform of hoodies and bike shorts during most hours of spring, summer, and fall, my impulse buys gathered more dust in the back of the closet.
Inspired by fashion writer and influencer Stephanie Broek, I decided to create a capsule closet, a tightly curated and streamlined wardrobe made up of quality staples and statement pieces — one that I sourced as sustainably as possible. (I also had a move on the horizon, and my new closet space would be a far cry from the walk-in closet my husband and I were sharing, which I had already taken up 95 percent of.) And so I made a pledge to myself to quit shopping for new pieces entirely, promising to only buy secondhand and vintage pieces going forward.
After a week spent downsizing, a few months of sourcing “new” secondhand pieces, and a new physical closet later, I’m working with a wardrobe that’s less than 50 percent of what it used to be, and 100 percent more wearable. Here’s how you can build a capsule wardrobe, too.
Assess what you already own
The first step in creating a curated closet is assessing the pieces you already own. The idea is to build a wardrobe filled with clothing you’ll wear again and again. With that in mind, take a look at the contents of your wardrobe and decide what doesn’t fit that description.
After taking out the pieces you hardly or no longer wear, decide: What can you resell (to make money to reinvest into your new wardrobe), and what can you donate? Bring your items to sell at stores like Buffalo Exchange (which also offers Sell-by-Mail program) or Crossroads Trading, or mail them to be sold virtually at places like thredUP. You can also sell the clothing yourself on platforms like Poshmark, eBay, and Depop.
Before you think of tossing something just because it has a bit of wear and tear, consider taking the time to mend it. “It’s really important to fix nicer, classic items before buying new — for example, resoling a black bootie or fixing straps on a designer handbag,” says Cassandra Dittmer, a sustainable stylist, consultant, and expert. “Shifting your mindset to a place of taking care of what you already own is a powerful way to evolve as a consumer.” Fun fact: One of my favorite shoes is a pair of sculptural Marni sandals (pictured here) that I’ve gotten cleaned and resoled after finding them secondhand.
For pieces that may seem too far gone to salvage or donate, do some research on where you can bring them to be recycled (do not just throw them away as they’ll end up in landfills). Living in NYC, I drop off my unwanted clothing at donation bins from HELPSY, a textile recycling service that sorts through your old goods and recycles anything unwearable into rags for industrial use. If you don’t have a similar donation bin near you, look at store programs (Reformation, H&M, and Levi’s are just some of the brands that will take clothing from any brand) that will recycle them for you. You can also pay to ship unwanted clothing and textiles to be recycled through programs like TerraCycle.
Once you’ve sorted through what you already have (and hopefully made a few bucks in the process), you’re ready to start rebuilding your wardrobe.
Fill the clothing gaps
Every capsule closet should have a variety of classic pieces that won’t ever go out of style. Think items that have remained staples for the last few decades: trench coats, crisp button-downs, cashmere sweaters, blue jeans, black boots, blazers, etc. “These are the items you can wear any given day from year to year that never look outdated,” says Liisa Jokinen, vintage expert and founder of vintage search engine Gem, a platform that indexes vintage and secondhand items from all over the world (more on it below). “You can never go wrong with these items, and they’re easy to mix with anything. They’ll also save your day when you feel like you have nothing to wear.”
After looking at what remained in your closet, fill in the missing gaps. The good news is that all of these timeless pieces are usually available in excess pre-loved at places ranging from affordable thrift stores to luxury consignment boutiques. Prioritize what you need first by seasons. Did you let go of a bunch of old fast fashion, not-so-warm winter coats ahead of the cold weather? Start by investing in one or two practical coats that work with everything, like a simple trench or understated peacoat.
Getting dressed should be fun, which is why your closet should also include statement pieces. In this case, opening yourself up to vintage can lead to many one-of-a-kind options. “Shopping vintage is one of the best ways to experiment with funky and unique silhouettes,” says Dittmer. “It’s a great way to explore different eras of fashion and boundaries within your own personal style.” But while you should have fun, do think about the wearability of the piece. “I would avoid anything that feels too costume-y, it’s easy to get carried away when you’re shopping secondhand. I try to remind myself, if this piece was new, would I still buy it, or am I only liking it because it’s vintage? I still make sure it’s something I would reach for without the vintage clout.”
Jokinen recommends opting for statement items like jewelry, blouses, and shoes, or other “small accents that don’t make your whole outfit scream for attention.” This way, you can pair them with the classics you already own. “Think of combining the above-mentioned white blouse with a pair of dangling statement earrings, or blue jeans with a pair of shoes in a bright color.” For Dittmer, it’s all about subtle statement details, “like a pearl button or unique scallops.”
Of course, this doesn’t always have to be the case. If you find the perfect vintage floor-length sequined dress — something you probably wouldn’t wear every day, but you know you’d wear time and time again over the years — by all means, go for it, so long as it’s not an impulse purchase. My rule of thumb is: If I see something amazing in a shop or online that I can’t stop thinking about for a week or two, it’s worth buying. “The important thing to consider when shopping for statement pieces is that they should be purchased just as thoughtfully as your classic pieces,” says Dittmer.
What to invest in
Owning a high-quality wardrobe doesn’t necessarily mean you need to spend a fortune. Thanks to shopping vintage and secondhand over the years, I have amassed a collection of built-to-last pieces I would have never been able to afford new.
That said, there are some things worth investing in — things you’ll be able to wear for literally decades to come, or easily resell when you’re done with them. “Anything from Chanel to Hermès, to Gucci — those are the pieces you can always resell. Not necessarily for profit, but you won’t lose out on all your money,” points out Jokinen.
A few months into quarantine, I fell in love with a vintage Gucci Boston bag that I found on The RealReal. Despite it being older with a bit of wear and tear, it was still in good condition. It was pricier than I wanted it to be, but I knew it would last me, as long as I took care of it, and be worth it in the end. Not only was it a classic style — a medium-sized barrel shape with two top handles — but modern iterations of this style still make their way down current Gucci runways. Even at a higher price than some of my other purchases this pandemic, I still ended up paying a quarter of what these bags go for today.
Labels aside, there are a couple of wardrobe staples that are worth spending your hard-earned cash on to ensure that they last season after season; according to Dittmer, “investing in quality shoes, denim, and basics is a good place to start.”
On the other hand, there are some items that aren’t worth shelling out for that you can easily score at a wallet-friendly price (and without running to your local Zara), such as trendier styles that probably won’t be as in-demand a year from now. “Most of the current trends are so easy to shop secondhand, as fashion is largely inspired by past decades,” says Jokinen. “Things go in circles. Plus, by shopping trends secondhand, you can create your own interpretation of them and stand out, which is the fun part!”
For example. one trend that’s been having a moment for a few seasons is the puff sleeve dress. Why spend on a pricy designer item — or a cheap fast fashion duplicate — when you can find plenty of show-stopping pieces straight from the ‘80s? Not only will they be one of a kind, but as Jokinen points out, the quality of pieces over 20 years old is much higher than of clothes produced today, so they’ll last you much longer. That said, do look at what the item is made from when deciding on a purchase. “I would avoid cheap and synthetic fabrications and focus on natural fibers,” says Dittmer.
Still, if you really want to buy something of-the-moment from a buzzy contemporary brand, it’s possible to do so secondhand. There are plenty of people selling their gently worn pieces on platforms like Vestiaire, Depop, and Series. That’s where I’ve managed to nab pristine Orseund Iris knits and a Stand Studio coat without having to drain my savings account. It just might take you longer to find the exact piece you want.
Where to shop secondhand
With our ability to shop in person limited due to the pandemic, there’s no longer the thrill of the physical hunt — digging through rack after rack in an overstuffed secondhand shop. However, we can thank the internet gods for giving us access to vintage and consignments from all over the globe and the ability to search exactly what we’re looking for. My new favorite way to shop is through Gem, a platform that aggregates a whopping 30 million products through major luxury designer consignment retailers, online marketplaces like Etsy and eBay, as well as thousands of independent vintage shops. Another great platform is Thrilling, an online marketplace that sells goods from over 130 small vintage stores across the U.S. Compiling an assortment of designer and no-name vintage, it offers a wide range of price points and highlights Black-owned vintage businesses.
For specific designer labels, whether a vintage handbag or something from a contemporary brand, I love shopping on The RealReal, Vestiaire, Heroine. Platforms like Depop, ThredUp, and Poshmark are also great for more affordable brands.
There are also plenty of independent vintage e-commerce stores to choose from. Personally, I love The NXCVintage Shop for in-your-face colors and prints, Mirth Vintage for neutral wardrobe staples, Berriez for a size-inclusive assortment of colorful statement pieces, The Break for an incredible curation of quality shoes and bags, and Singulier MTL for chic ‘60s and ‘70s retro wares.
Months after beginning this journey, my closet is much more cohesive, and it takes me significantly less time to get dressed. Despite reducing what I owned by 50 percent, I feel like I now have more options because I have pieces that are more wearable and can be mixed and matched together in a number of ways.
I constantly reach for my classics: the vintage men’s blazers I’ve had for years, my newly downsized collection of denim, basic turtlenecks and tees for layering, Dr. Martens boots, and a vintage burgundy Helmut Lang trench coat my husband scored for me a while back. While filling the gaps, I’ve added a tan leather trench, a handful of plain men’s button-downs, and a vintage leather blazer à la Nanushka into the mix. Next on my list are a simple leather skirt and a pair of high-rise trousers.
In terms of statement pieces, I still cherish my collections of vintage long-sleeve maxi dresses and colorful mini bags, as well as a pair of vintage platform Prada boots and the aforementioned Marni sandals. However, some of my favorite statement items I own were pandemic purchases: the floor-length logo-covered Fendi winter coat of my dreams, a leather Zayna Bayne harness bra, a satin bustier, and a chunky chain link necklace — all secondhand purchases.
While I’ve taken the pledge to quit shopping new for the time being, does that mean I’ll never buy another new thing, ever again? Likely not, but, the next time I do choose to, I’ll be much more mindful about what I’m purchasing and who I’m supporting. From brands upcycling deadstock fabrics to ones that have adopted a circular fashion model, there are plenty of small, independent brands, who are trying to combat fashion waste, to turn to should I fail to find something secondhand. “We have so much access to wonderful clothing that I now prioritize brands that are transparent and ethical and that deserve my investment,” confirms Dittmer.
Ultimately, when building a sustainable capsule closet, it’s about starting with what you have in your current closet and changing your consumption habits to be more mindful in the future. Think through each purchase, whether it’s secondhand or from a sustainable label, and make sure it’s something that you’ll wear after the current season comes to an end. Most importantly, take care of the clothes you wear so that you can keep wearing them — and so that someday, someone else can, too.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
Like many people during the pandemic-induced shelter-in-place orders, I turned to improving my living space with all of the free time I suddenly found myself with. While many looked to revamping their at-home workspaces or repainting their living room, I cleaned out my clutter-filled closet — and then turned it into a capsule wardrobe.
As a writer that’s been covering fashion trends for years, shopping is not only my favorite pastime but also basically part of my job. Over the years, though, I had managed to collect so much clothing that it was causing me to feel like I was drowning in my own closet. And so, confined to the walls of my apartment, I decided it was time to give my wardrobe a makeover.
While I’ve always tried to keep sustainability in mind when shopping, by buying from ethical brands and shopping secondhand, I was still guilty of making a few fast fashion purchases each season. I often made impulse buys on a whim, which led to a closet full of clothing and accessories I wore once or, worse, never at all. With the pandemic, this became only more apparent: As I wore my new uniform of hoodies and bike shorts during most hours of spring, summer, and fall, my impulse buys gathered more dust in the back of the closet.
Inspired by fashion writer and influencer Stephanie Broek, I decided to create a capsule closet, a tightly curated and streamlined wardrobe made up of quality staples and statement pieces — one that I sourced as sustainably as possible. (I also had a move on the horizon, and my new closet space would be a far cry from the walk-in closet my husband and I were sharing, which I had already taken up 95 percent of.) And so I made a pledge to myself to quit shopping for new pieces entirely, promising to only buy secondhand and vintage pieces going forward.
After a week spent downsizing, a few months of sourcing “new” secondhand pieces, and a new physical closet later, I’m working with a wardrobe that’s less than 50 percent of what it used to be, and 100 percent more wearable. Here’s how you can build a capsule wardrobe, too.
Assess what you already own
The first step in creating a curated closet is assessing the pieces you already own. The idea is to build a wardrobe filled with clothing you’ll wear again and again. With that in mind, take a look at the contents of your wardrobe and decide what doesn’t fit that description.
After taking out the pieces you hardly or no longer wear, decide: What can you resell (to make money to reinvest into your new wardrobe), and what can you donate? Bring your items to sell at stores like Buffalo Exchange (which also offers Sell-by-Mail program) or Crossroads Trading, or mail them to be sold virtually at places like thredUP. You can also sell the clothing yourself on platforms like Poshmark, eBay, and Depop.
Before you think of tossing something just because it has a bit of wear and tear, consider taking the time to mend it. “It’s really important to fix nicer, classic items before buying new — for example, resoling a black bootie or fixing straps on a designer handbag,” says Cassandra Dittmer, a sustainable stylist, consultant, and expert. “Shifting your mindset to a place of taking care of what you already own is a powerful way to evolve as a consumer.” Fun fact: One of my favorite shoes is a pair of sculptural Marni sandals (pictured here) that I’ve gotten cleaned and resoled after finding them secondhand.
For pieces that may seem too far gone to salvage or donate, do some research on where you can bring them to be recycled (do not just throw them away as they’ll end up in landfills). Living in NYC, I drop off my unwanted clothing at donation bins from HELPSY, a textile recycling service that sorts through your old goods and recycles anything unwearable into rags for industrial use. If you don’t have a similar donation bin near you, look at store programs (Reformation, H&M, and Levi’s are just some of the brands that will take clothing from any brand) that will recycle them for you. You can also pay to ship unwanted clothing and textiles to be recycled through programs like TerraCycle.
Once you’ve sorted through what you already have (and hopefully made a few bucks in the process), you’re ready to start rebuilding your wardrobe.
Fill the clothing gaps
Every capsule closet should have a variety of classic pieces that won’t ever go out of style. Think items that have remained staples for the last few decades: trench coats, crisp button-downs, cashmere sweaters, blue jeans, black boots, blazers, etc. “These are the items you can wear any given day from year to year that never look outdated,” says Liisa Jokinen, vintage expert and founder of vintage search engine Gem, a platform that indexes vintage and secondhand items from all over the world (more on it below). “You can never go wrong with these items, and they’re easy to mix with anything. They’ll also save your day when you feel like you have nothing to wear.”
After looking at what remained in your closet, fill in the missing gaps. The good news is that all of these timeless pieces are usually available in excess pre-loved at places ranging from affordable thrift stores to luxury consignment boutiques. Prioritize what you need first by seasons. Did you let go of a bunch of old fast fashion, not-so-warm winter coats ahead of the cold weather? Start by investing in one or two practical coats that work with everything, like a simple trench or understated peacoat.
Getting dressed should be fun, which is why your closet should also include statement pieces. In this case, opening yourself up to vintage can lead to many one-of-a-kind options. “Shopping vintage is one of the best ways to experiment with funky and unique silhouettes,” says Dittmer. “It’s a great way to explore different eras of fashion and boundaries within your own personal style.” But while you should have fun, do think about the wearability of the piece. “I would avoid anything that feels too costume-y, it’s easy to get carried away when you’re shopping secondhand. I try to remind myself, if this piece was new, would I still buy it, or am I only liking it because it’s vintage? I still make sure it’s something I would reach for without the vintage clout.”
Jokinen recommends opting for statement items like jewelry, blouses, and shoes, or other “small accents that don’t make your whole outfit scream for attention.” This way, you can pair them with the classics you already own. “Think of combining the above-mentioned white blouse with a pair of dangling statement earrings, or blue jeans with a pair of shoes in a bright color.” For Dittmer, it’s all about subtle statement details, “like a pearl button or unique scallops.”
Of course, this doesn’t always have to be the case. If you find the perfect vintage floor-length sequined dress — something you probably wouldn’t wear every day, but you know you’d wear time and time again over the years — by all means, go for it, so long as it’s not an impulse purchase. My rule of thumb is: If I see something amazing in a shop or online that I can’t stop thinking about for a week or two, it’s worth buying. “The important thing to consider when shopping for statement pieces is that they should be purchased just as thoughtfully as your classic pieces,” says Dittmer.
What to invest in
Owning a high-quality wardrobe doesn’t necessarily mean you need to spend a fortune. Thanks to shopping vintage and secondhand over the years, I have amassed a collection of built-to-last pieces I would have never been able to afford new.
That said, there are some things worth investing in — things you’ll be able to wear for literally decades to come, or easily resell when you’re done with them. “Anything from Chanel to Hermès, to Gucci — those are the pieces you can always resell. Not necessarily for profit, but you won’t lose out on all your money,” points out Jokinen.
A few months into quarantine, I fell in love with a vintage Gucci Boston bag that I found on The RealReal. Despite it being older with a bit of wear and tear, it was still in good condition. It was pricier than I wanted it to be, but I knew it would last me, as long as I took care of it, and be worth it in the end. Not only was it a classic style — a medium-sized barrel shape with two top handles — but modern iterations of this style still make their way down current Gucci runways. Even at a higher price than some of my other purchases this pandemic, I still ended up paying a quarter of what these bags go for today.
Labels aside, there are a couple of wardrobe staples that are worth spending your hard-earned cash on to ensure that they last season after season; according to Dittmer, “investing in quality shoes, denim, and basics is a good place to start.”
On the other hand, there are some items that aren’t worth shelling out for that you can easily score at a wallet-friendly price (and without running to your local Zara), such as trendier styles that probably won’t be as in-demand a year from now. “Most of the current trends are so easy to shop secondhand, as fashion is largely inspired by past decades,” says Jokinen. “Things go in circles. Plus, by shopping trends secondhand, you can create your own interpretation of them and stand out, which is the fun part!”
For example. one trend that’s been having a moment for a few seasons is the puff sleeve dress. Why spend on a pricy designer item — or a cheap fast fashion duplicate — when you can find plenty of show-stopping pieces straight from the ‘80s? Not only will they be one of a kind, but as Jokinen points out, the quality of pieces over 20 years old is much higher than of clothes produced today, so they’ll last you much longer. That said, do look at what the item is made from when deciding on a purchase. “I would avoid cheap and synthetic fabrications and focus on natural fibers,” says Dittmer.
Still, if you really want to buy something of-the-moment from a buzzy contemporary brand, it’s possible to do so secondhand. There are plenty of people selling their gently worn pieces on platforms like Vestiaire, Depop, and Series. That’s where I’ve managed to nab pristine Orseund Iris knits and a Stand Studio coat without having to drain my savings account. It just might take you longer to find the exact piece you want.
Where to shop secondhand
With our ability to shop in person limited due to the pandemic, there’s no longer the thrill of the physical hunt — digging through rack after rack in an overstuffed secondhand shop. However, we can thank the internet gods for giving us access to vintage and consignments from all over the globe and the ability to search exactly what we’re looking for. My new favorite way to shop is through Gem, a platform that aggregates a whopping 30 million products through major luxury designer consignment retailers, online marketplaces like Etsy and eBay, as well as thousands of independent vintage shops. Another great platform is Thrilling, an online marketplace that sells goods from over 130 small vintage stores across the U.S. Compiling an assortment of designer and no-name vintage, it offers a wide range of price points and highlights Black-owned vintage businesses.
For specific designer labels, whether a vintage handbag or something from a contemporary brand, I love shopping on The RealReal, Vestiaire, Heroine. Platforms like Depop, ThredUp, and Poshmark are also great for more affordable brands.
There are also plenty of independent vintage e-commerce stores to choose from. Personally, I love The NXCVintage Shop for in-your-face colors and prints, Mirth Vintage for neutral wardrobe staples, Berriez for a size-inclusive assortment of colorful statement pieces, The Break for an incredible curation of quality shoes and bags, and Singulier MTL for chic ‘60s and ‘70s retro wares.
Months after beginning this journey, my closet is much more cohesive, and it takes me significantly less time to get dressed. Despite reducing what I owned by 50 percent, I feel like I now have more options because I have pieces that are more wearable and can be mixed and matched together in a number of ways.
I constantly reach for my classics: the vintage men’s blazers I’ve had for years, my newly downsized collection of denim, basic turtlenecks and tees for layering, Dr. Martens boots, and a vintage burgundy Helmut Lang trench coat my husband scored for me a while back. While filling the gaps, I’ve added a tan leather trench, a handful of plain men’s button-downs, and a vintage leather blazer à la Nanushka into the mix. Next on my list are a simple leather skirt and a pair of high-rise trousers.
In terms of statement pieces, I still cherish my collections of vintage long-sleeve maxi dresses and colorful mini bags, as well as a pair of vintage platform Prada boots and the aforementioned Marni sandals. However, some of my favorite statement items I own were pandemic purchases: the floor-length logo-covered Fendi winter coat of my dreams, a leather Zayna Bayne harness bra, a satin bustier, and a chunky chain link necklace — all secondhand purchases.
While I’ve taken the pledge to quit shopping new for the time being, does that mean I’ll never buy another new thing, ever again? Likely not, but, the next time I do choose to, I’ll be much more mindful about what I’m purchasing and who I’m supporting. From brands upcycling deadstock fabrics to ones that have adopted a circular fashion model, there are plenty of small, independent brands, who are trying to combat fashion waste, to turn to should I fail to find something secondhand. “We have so much access to wonderful clothing that I now prioritize brands that are transparent and ethical and that deserve my investment,” confirms Dittmer.
Ultimately, when building a sustainable capsule closet, it’s about starting with what you have in your current closet and changing your consumption habits to be more mindful in the future. Think through each purchase, whether it’s secondhand or from a sustainable label, and make sure it’s something that you’ll wear after the current season comes to an end. Most importantly, take care of the clothes you wear so that you can keep wearing them — and so that someday, someone else can, too.
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The fashion did not disappoint at this evening’s 77th Annual Golden Globes, with stars rolling up in breathtaking gowns, pantsuits, and — yes — there was even a chest harness. But while there was plenty of sartorial gold to go around, there was one major trend that swept across the carpet: the statement sleeve. This year, the bigger the shoulder, the better.
Tonight’s attendees boasted show-stopping sleeves and statement shoulders of all sorts. There were doll-like puffed cap sleeves on Dakota Fanning’s Dior Haute Couture gown, and billowing bishop sleeves on Zoey Deutch’s golden Fendi dress. Da’Vine Joy Randolph donned the most gorgeous bow-inspired ruffle moment on her magenta gown, while Jodie Comer’s poofy emerald green look earned her a comparison to Baby Yoda (which, um, is definitely a compliment).
Now, let’s keep in mind, puffy sleeves are certainly not a new trend. But, in case you had any doubt whether or not they’ll be sticking around in 2020, just take a gander at tonight’s attendees.
And considering how badly women were snubbed by this year’s nominations (not one woman of color was nominated for a TV Golden Globe and women were overlooked entirely for the Best Director category, for starters), perhaps this aesthetic choice is meant to send a message to those behind the scenes: Women have ditched the dainty, bare-shoulder gowns of the past for larger-than-life designs, proving that they’re taking up more space in Hollywood, and will continue to do so.
Check out the biggest, baddest, and boldest sleeves of the evening, ahead.
We love a two-toned moment, especially when it involves sleeves of gargantuan proportions like Janina Gavankar’s Georges Chakra gown. Photo: Kevork Djansezian/NBC/NBCU Photo Bank/Getty Images.
Isla Fisher’s gorgeous Monique Lhuillier gown featured statement sleeves that started below the shoulders.Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage.
Dakota Fanning’s whimsical Dior Haute Couture gown is what fairytale dreams are made of.Photo: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage.
Da’Vine Joy Randolph was a magenta dream in this ruffled masterpiece.Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.
Jodie Comer’s stunning emerald green gown may also be the evening’s most meme-able.Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage.
Olivia Colman looked as regal as ever in this structured, scarlet gown.
Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.Zoey Deutch’s billowing Fendi bishop sleeves came complete with shoulder pads.Photo: George Pimentel/WireImage.
Bel Powley had a Little Women moment in this frilly Miu Miu frock.Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.
Kaitlyn Dever stunned in this floral Valentino gown with structured, elbow-length puff sleeves.Photo: VALERIE MACON/AFP/Getty Images.
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BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA – JANUARY 05: 77th ANNUAL GOLDEN GLOBE AWARDS — Pictured: Billy Porter arrives to the 77th Annual Golden Globe Awards held at the Beverly Hilton Hotel on January 5, 2020. — (Photo by: Todd Williamson/NBC/NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images)
Billy Porter is no stranger to red carpet magic, and his getup for tonight’s 77th annual Golden Globes — an all-white suit with a glorious feathered train — might be our favorite yet.
The actor and performer is in the running for Best Actor in a Drama Series for his role on Pose, and he waltzed onto tonight’s red carpet looking like a dapper angel. Sporting a custom suit by Alex Vinash, Porter took the dreamy ensemble to the next level with a sweeping, feather-embellished train.
He completed his look with satin Jimmy Choo boots and Tiffany & Co. jewels, making for a head-turning look that brought all the drama.
According to his red carpet interview with E!, Porter’s look took three months to complete. And after seeing that heavenly feathered train, we’re not surprised. A true pro at functional fashion, the feathered train literally zips off, so the star can enjoy a seated dinner. There is indeed a difference between a standing look and a seated look, and he’s prepared for both.
This past year, the actor and performer went viral for sporting a Christian Siriano tuxedo gown to the 2019 Oscars. Looks like he’s planning to hold his title as one of the most Googled celebrities of the red carpet in 2020, and we’re so here for it.
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Kerry Washington just stole the show at tonight’s Golden Globes.
Certainly no newcomer to a best-dressed list, The American Son actress wore an all-black Altuzarra ensemble that consisted of a polished, pointy-shouldered blazer over a silky skirt (with a very high leg slit). But rather than wearing her suit jacket with a blouse underneath, the star instead opted to show a bit more skin. Peeking out from underneath her blazer was a crystal-embellished, harness-inspired piece of jewelry that attached to her floor-length skirt. And it was show-stopping.
The star completed her look with strappy, crystal embellished heels, a polished bob, and bold red lip. Given how wild the world went for previous red carpet harnesses, we expect to be talking about this look for months to come.
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