In an emotional post shared to Instagram late Wednesday night, legendary ’90s supermodel Linda Evangelista revealed that she filed a lawsuit against Zeltiq Aesthetics after she was “brutally disfigured” by the company’s CoolSculpting fat-freezing treatment.

“Today I took a big step towards righting a wrong that I have suffered and have kept to myself for over five years,” Evangelista wrote. “To my followers who have wondered why I have not been working while my peers’ careers have been thriving, the reason is that I was brutally disfigured by Zeltiq’s CoolSculpting procedure which did the opposite of what it promised. It increased, not decreased, my fat cells and left me permanently deformed even after undergoing two painful, unsuccessful, corrective surgeries. I have been left, as the media has described, ‘unrecognizable.'”

CoolSculpting, a popular noninvasive procedure performed in doctors’ offices and med spas, works by pulling body tissue in the treatment area into the machine to expose the tissue to extremely cold temperatures, causing the fat cells to freeze. Over the next two to three months, those cells “die” and are absorbed by the body’s lymphatic system, resulting in up to a 25% reduction of fat. According to the CoolSculpting website, post-treatment side effects include “temporary redness, swelling, blanching, bruising, firmness, tingling, stinging, tenderness, cramping, aching, itching, or skin sensitivity, and sensation of fullness in the back of the throat after submental or submandibular area treatment.”

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The condition Evangelista went on to describe in her post is paradoxical adipose hyperplasia (PAH), a rare adverse reaction developed by 0.05% to 0.39% of CoolSculpting patients first recorded in 2014, four years after the procedure was cleared by the FDA. Evangelista said that she was not made aware of the risk of PAH, which occurs when the freezing of the fat cells triggers a reactionary event causing them to thicken rather than break down as intended, and detailed how the resulting damage has affected her mental health.

“PAH has not only destroyed my livelihood, it has sent me into a cycle of deep depression, profound sadness, and the lowest depths of self-loathing. In the process, I have become a recluse,” she wrote. “With this lawsuit, I am moving forward to rid myself of my shame, and going public with my story. I’m so tired of living this way. I would like to walk out my door with my head held high, despite not looking like myself any longer.” Refinery29 has reached out to CoolSculpting for comment and will update this post when we hear back.

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An acclaimed poet notorious for her wild sex parties, Rachel Rabbit White used to be one of the highest-paid escorts in New York City. She has since left sex work — and New York — to live with her fiancé, Cherry author Nico Walker, in Oxford, Mississippi. This year, Rabbit White released a new edition of her debut poetry collection, Porn Carnival, with a bonus insert of new love poems inspired by her romance with Walker. The following interview was told to Rachel Krause and has been edited for length and clarity.

MONDAY

It’s the middle of a snowstorm in Mississippi when Nico and I get the offer to go to Los Angeles. There’s the digital premiere for Cherry, the Hollywood adaptation of the novel he wrote while in prison, and opportunities for press. Nico isn’t sure; he’s publicly expressed that he won’t watch the movie. I get it, but as a poet, what I regard as the lowest depth of misery is to be driven by certainty rather than beauty.

I officially moved to Mississippi in December to be with Nico. His court supervision makes it so that he can’t go north of Jackson without permission from a parole officer, and until the snowstorm shut down the town for an entire week, I’d barely noticed, cocooned in a honeymoon glow. But on day three of being out of cat litter, down to one can of chickpeas in the pantry, I am ready for a change.

I march into Nico’s office. “Come, have a seat,” he says, moving pages of a manuscript from the sofa, kicking pages from the floor, the only copies that exist because he writes on a typewriter.

“We should go to L.A.,” I say matter of factly, ready to follow up with a speech, something about glamour and opting for adventure whenever possible, but he just says, “Okay.” I make appointments to get vaccinated (being a smoker has its merits), and weeks later, the state of California approves my fiancé for entry.

Always take two days to pack. I learned this in my previous career as a New York City escort, touring, doing “fly me to you” appointments and paid “vacations.”

“You can learn a lot from traveling with a ‘VIP companion,’” I say, somewhat jokingly, to Nico. I learned from the best: girls whose bios simply read “globetrotter” or “international It-girl.” These are the women who taught me everything I know about beauty and hustling.

Pack wardrobe the first day. On the second, pack skin care, hair products, toiletries, essentials. Never go anywhere without a hand steamer or a Bluetooth speaker. On the morning of the flight, do a full face of makeup, tossing each item into your cosmetic case as you go; that way you don’t forget anything. 

People have nothing to do at the airport but sit around and look at each other, which is why I believe in traveling in style. Wear heels so as to save room in the suitcase. A girl really only needs to own three pairs of shoes: black platform heels, nude platform heels, and white leather boots. 

Opt for the aisle seat so that you can drink as much Evian as you want and not worry about bothering a seatmate. Travel dehydrates. No matter how polished one looks entering the airport, a plane dishevels. 

Upon landing, find a bathroom near the baggage carousel. In my carryon I keep makeup, a hairbrush, mini deodorant, baby wipes, and a roll-on perfume. (I’ve recently discovered the “designer imposter” roll-ons at the Walgreens check-out; the Prada Candy and Mugler Angel dupes aren’t bad.) The routine is a hold-over from those “fly me to you” appointments. Regardless, it is a mood boost.

The car rental place lost our reservation but eventually we get the Camaro convertible Nico meant to book. I have visions of us at the Chateau Marmont, chiffon scarf trailing with the top down along Sunset Boulevard, laughing maniacally at the Cherry billboard.

TUESDAY

I hardly ever wash my face before bed. I have my reasons: 1) I’m always staying up late waiting for something to happen. 2) I want to have sex with my lashes still on.

When I do wash my face, I use Tatcha Rice Polish. I do an oil cleanse to get any lingering eyelash glue off with L’Occitane Shea Butter Cleansing Oil [Ed. Note: discontinued], which is magic for dry skin. If I have any tips on how to get away with skipping skin care at night, it would be the power of Dr. Schultz’s Beauty RX glycolic peel solution. He does peels in his Upper East Side office, and recently opened several “peel bars” in multiple states. The first time I got one, my skin was so smooth my Dior Forever Undercover Foundation wouldn’t stay on, as if I had no pores to absorb the coverage. I spot-finish with Dr. Schultz’s Island Cream which is prescribed for redness, and moisturize with Allies of Skin Retinal & Peptides Overnight Mask [discontinued] or Weleda Skin Food, which I wear as a primer. (I only recommend this for very dry skin.)

Because I never wash my face, I’m a sucker for the promises that expensive skin care makes, that I will have more command of myself, and more grace, too. This time will be different, I think, believing every time that if I spend enough on fancy jars and potions I will magically stop passing out in my lashes.

“Babe, we’re going to be late for the Polo Lounge,” I say. Nico is applying the Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powder Duo I turned him onto. He started his foray into makeup with a little mascara but we all know that’s just a gateway drug. “The Polo Lounge,” he repeats. “Lovey, you know I don’t know what that means.” I tell him it’s chic, a splurge to celebrate L.A., and he reminds me he’s been in prison for the last decade; until recently, a splurge was making little cakes in his cell out of mayonnaise and Pepsi.

“Do you have the sparkle stuff?” He’s learned fast with makeup. Lately, we’re both into the limited-edition Barbie Ferreira Becca Ignite Liquified Light Highlighter, which goes on glittery and smells like My Little Ponies. 

It’s important to experiment and find a signature look when it comes to makeup. For Nico, it’s light blue Wet & Wild eyeshadow, too much Better Than Sex mascara, and the sparkle stuff. 

“Do you always do the baby doll look?” a friend once asked me, “or do you ever do a natural face?” I considered this. For me, a five-minute face is NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer, yesterday’s HUDA lashes, and a swipe of sheer lipstick.

We’re running late but decide to take the time to put the top down on the car. I’m wearing the chiffon scarf around my head, sunglasses and everything. After about five tries, it’s clear we’ve been dealt a broken convertible.

When the reservation sets us back on our next engagement, Nico orders extra lunches in pink Beverly Hills Hotel to-go boxes as an offering. When running late, try to bring a gift, if possible. Nico is from the Midwest, so he intuitively understands. 

“I feel like I’m in Rad Racer,” he says, trying to get from West Hollywood to Downtown. He’s driving so fast I don’t register a Cherry billboard until after we’ve passed it.

WEDNESDAY

Dinner and drinks got the best of us. I’ve woken with the sort of pulsing hangover that can only be cured with getting out of bed. What else is there to do, lay there and suffer? The key is to leave the house as quickly as possible, while you’re still a bit too tipsy to realize it’s a bad idea. 

First, do last night’s lashes need to be peeled off or can you just glue down the edges? A shower is essential but avoid washing your hair; you want some of last night’s secrets intact. Also. You want to make your hair bigger — utilize dry shampoo. You want to look less like you’ve just rolled out of bed and more like the night never ended.

Hangover-glam hinges on eyeliner — too much of it. Think of the greats: Lindsay Lohan’s waterline getting darker and messier, Amy Winehouse’s cat eye growing longer and longer, like the party went on for weeks. You want to look like you’ve been bad and yet smell like an angel. Scent won’t change your hangover, but it marks the line between feeling like Kate Moss on a glam bender and feeling like your hair is petrifying and your life is over. 

For the trip, I’ve brought my own fragrance, Paradise Edition, created by Marissa Zappas and inspired by the love poems in my new collection, Porn Carnival: The Paradise Edition. Perfumes that feel fresh are integral to shifting the texture of a hangover, and Paradise Edition opens ozonic with salt water and bergamot before blooming to jasmine and orange flower.

Some say perfume should be “discovered,” not detectable unless someone is very close, as perfume is inherently invisible, ethereal, like an accessory no one sees. In this case, I disagree. Perfume is invisible but a hangover is not. Nico and I douse ourselves, spraying perfume all over and in our hair. 

A hangover wants for lotion and you want to layer your scent. Aim to match the notes in both. I complement the top notes in Paradise Edition with L’Occitane’s Shea Bergamot set or the Verbena Mandarin one. Using a hand lotion in addition to a body butter might seem fussy, but for those of us who smoke or “talk with our hands,” its power shouldn’t be underestimated. 

A hangover is also the time to experiment. Sometimes when your brain is half working, it comes up with its best accessorizing ideas. It was during a hangover that I thought to buy angel wings on Etsy, rose-gold vampire fangs from GLD Shop, that I first tried high fluffy pigtails.

Other hangover secrets include drinking a glass of pickle juice. (“It’s an old Slovenian trick,” writes my friend Tea Hacic-Vlahovic in her hilarious novel Life of the Party. It does work. I think it’s the electrolytes.)

At brunch, I have exactly one-and-a-half mimosa and feel glad I’m not the one who has to talk on a podcast and later impress the publishers of a magazine. And again, we drive from West Hollywood to Downtown. Poor Nico. I’m really putting him through it.

THURSDAY

Nico has decided to dye his hair pink. He’s seeing Daniel Moon, colorist to the stars at HAIR. I’m getting a trim and some layers, and maybe long “curtain bangs.”

Sitting in the stylist’s chair is a great time to get a reality check — on both your life and hair habits. Like, how often do you really need to wash your hair? Once, my ex-boyfriend complained that his hair was too dirty as we were hurrying to get ready so I sprayed a cloud of Amika Perk Up Dry Shampoo. He looked startled for a moment then began laughing. “This was my favorite scent of yours,” he said. “I always was addicted to how good your hair smelled… but really your hair is just always dirty.”

The stylist asks if I remember blow-out bars. I had a membership to one! Twice a week I’d get my hair set in “Hollywood waves” à la Veronica Lake or Jessica Rabbit. It was glam, it was polished, and it absolutely wrecked my hair. The experience taught me the importance of heat protection spray (I use Living Proof) and alternating between masks so your hair doesn’t “get used” to the formula. I use the Amika Soulfood Nourishing Mask and the Living Proof Restore Repair Mask.

These days I’ve devised a way to get a budget “Hollywood waves” effect without heat. After washing my hair, I let it half-dry in a low side-swept braid. When it’s still a bit wet, I undo the braid and lightly “scrunch” with Bumble and bumble Don’t Blow It then spritz with OUAI Wave Spray. Finally, I smooth frizz with IGK Rich Kid Coconut Oil Gel. I dislike oil serums — too messy when your hair seems to thin each year — but the gel formula works.

Nico is sitting beneath a dryer. I look over at him. No one ever looks comfortable in a hairdressing gown. He gives me a nod.

The stylist cuts the curtain bangs, measuring at my cheekbone, but then I get a little too excited, looking at inspo photos of Brigitte Bardot. 

“Do you want to go a little more Bardot?” he asks. 

L.A. me has a mantra: I don’t see why not.

In the mirror, I’m pleased. While it’s clear that facially I am no Bardot, I could maybe pass for a Jane Birkin type, or if you really squint, Audrey Hepburn-esque. 

In the car, I immediately pull down the passenger mirror, as one does, and find that the bangs have turned on me. They aren’t laying right. The more I try to fix them the more spidery they become.

Meanwhile, Nico’s pink hair is perfect, giving Kurt Cobain for Love magazine vibes.

“We’ll stop at home before dinner,” he says, but when we get to the apartment it’s pitch dark — the power is out. I spend the evening fussing with my bangs as Nico impresses some magazine people, reciting poems in French.

We have two photoshoots tomorrow so I must figure the bangs out. Now I remember the one rule of getting your photo taken: Never change your hair right before.

FRIDAY

When Nico and I first met, he was in a halfway house. We could only see each other during the day. When we heard he was getting out, it felt like a dream. “Can you believe we’ll be able to sleep together all night in a bed?” we kept saying. It felt like the height of luxury. It’s been about a year and we still sleep as close as possible, clutching each other until morning.

I wake with my face in Nico’s chest, bangs curled by sweat. I try to tame them but we’re already late.

Often I do my own hair and makeup for photos. It’s taken a lifetime of realizing which features to exaggerate and which to conceal. My straight-across brows aren’t going to arch no matter how much I pluck. Some makeup artists soften them a feather touch, but I play up their look with a heavy hand. Mostly, when someone else is doing my makeup, I’m afraid it won’t be enough. I believe in furry fake lashes, in overdrawing lips! (A tip: Color the lips entirely in a liner that matches. I like HUDA Beauty Liquid Matte and Lip Pencil in Gossip Girl.)

Still, there are times when makeup is best left to the professionals. I’ve only slept about four hours, but, feeling decrepit in the chair, I try to make the most of my time with MUA Danielle Katherine.

1. Watching her apply blush to the “apples” of the cheeks, I realize that on square faces like mine, the “apples” are up high, almost just below the eyes. Don’t let it spread to the hollows of the cheek!

2. This Fenty Soft Matte Longwear Foundation has me ready to cheat on Lancôme. It has full coverage yet glides on dewy and fresh.

3. Lipstick is back, she affirms. I had an inkling. Liquid lipstick smears beneath a mask. I’ve found myself reaching for BITE Buttercream Lipstick in Heather [discontinued] for its glossy finish.

Some tips for getting photographed:

Bring more wardrobe then you expect to shoot. Bring a steamer — the device, and someone to steam. (Thank you, Nico.)

Even if feet aren’t showing, wear heels for posture. Nude heels go with everything.

Avoid “spider hands” by moving slowly and continuously the entire time. 

Hint at a smile but don’t smile; press your tongue against your teeth and sort of smirk.

Exhale slowly and frequently. It’s acting — act like someone who is relaxed.

When we finish the shoot, we have another shoot, then a video shoot, then dinner. Sleep truly is luxurious.

SATURDAY

As a writer, I never gave much thought to the red carpet, yet in another timeline, Nico and I would be attending a Hollywood premiere. I imagine such an event requires confidence. I’m not going to say preparing for a red carpet is the same as prepping for an escort website photoshoot, but they deal in a similar fuss.

A few weeks before is fillers and Botox. I trust Dr. Mark Schwartz for sculpting a look (“you’re cute,” he would tell me when I’d suggest more. “Let’s not ruin it.”); Dr. Neal Schultz for under-eye fillers; Dr. Steven Pearlman‘s team for lips. For touch-ups that don’t break the bank, it’s Dr. Alexander Blinski.

If I’m getting “out there” and decide I need a colonic, as I have done in states of mania, Gravity in the East Village is my pick. I like their crunchy yoga-studio vibe — the attendant literally held my hand the entire time.

For microblading eyebrows, I recommend Karolina Bula. For spray tans it’s Brazil Bronze in Soho. The best eyelash extensions I’ve ever had were a set of mink from Blink Brow Bar at Saks Fifth Avenue and they cost about as much as a vial of Juvederm.

Anyway, there is no red carpet in spring of 2021. We skip the digital premiere.

Nico draws me a bath, adding a milky rose soak and Epsom salts. The importance of Epsom salts, which ease muscle ache, cannot be overstated enough. A sense of ease and comfort is essential to beauty. 

As I’m given to layering a scent, I like sprinkling the same essential oil (usually rose) in both the water and in a plain 7-day jar candle.

After the bath ritual is the moisturizing ritual. I drench myself in Heritage Store’s $10 Aura Glow, alternating between the rose and vanilla spice formulas. I keep my body oils in Egyptian glass bottles from Etsy, as drama is the heart of glamour.

I’ve recently gotten into using a giant fluffy powder puff to apply shimmering body powder to shoulders and cleavage. “Sassy,” said Nico, when he caught my routine.

The puff is from Renditions Powders. I use Peach Tinsel sparkling party powder by Too Faced [discontinued]. My bedsheets are perpetually covered in body oil stains but feeling silky and shimmery in bed is worth it.

SUNDAY

Sunday should be lazily productive. Sundays are for eating in bed and fucking and getting up mid-afternoon to hand-wash lingerie and delicates. 

I’ve come to accept that I will always stain my clothes — and I’ll never stop eating in bed — so I’ve devised a method. The Laundress Wash & Stain Bar does most of the work. For tough stains, pair with Dawn dish soap. (If it’s red wine, hit the stain immediately.) For whites, pair with The Laundress Bleach Alternative, creating a soapy paste with warm water. I use The Laundress Delicate Wash for silk and lingerie, separating whites, pastels, and blacks, stirring each in the tub, witch-like, with the end of a broom.

I try to do a face mask once a week. My current favorite is Saturday Skin Intense Hydration, but I love masks that come in a jar, like Youth To The People Hydrate and Glow Dream Mask. It’s best when skin care feels less like science and more like dealing in potions and elixirs. To feel completely decadent, apply Tatcha Gold Camellia Beauty Oil, which contains 23-karat gold flakes. At $95, it’s a splurge, but can be made to last with once-a-week use. If you’re going all out, finish with Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist.

Today we fly back to Mississippi. I’ll order a mini bottle of white wine on the plane. It can be tempting to not immediately unpack, but to take beauty seriously is to be serious about its organization. The same could be said for poetry.

In Mississippi, there are entire weeks that I don’t leave the house — still I put on makeup. I break up the day by putting an outfit on each morning and changing into a vintage nightgown by evening. (eBay is great for vintage nighties.)

Of course, beauty is about intrigue, and to intrigue one must use the mind as well as the body. Mostly, I’d rather stay in bed and read than brush my hair. I feel the pull of skipping a shower as much as any writer, but tending to beauty is a reminder that one can find grace in almost any task. It’s a sort of mindfulness, an attempt at remembering that, no matter how mundane, each part of the day can contain a sense of joy.

Some people have an altar, some have a vanity, I have both, but I get my best ideas letting my mind wander at the mirror then getting up to write in bed. Never let anyone tell you a writer shouldn’t work in bed. A desk is drab, and one has to fight off the drab to keep finding inspiration.

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Alexandra Cristin started Glam Seamless with $1,500 in her pocket and a mission to bring high-quality, affordable hair extensions to the masses. Just short of a decade later, the brand is an eight-figure business with 25 employees and a flagship salon in New York City. Today, on International Women’s Day, Cristin is launching a self-funded foundation and giving away $100,000 to women and girls for educational and professional pursuits. Through the 2021 Women’s Empowerment Fund, 40 women will be chosen to receive $2,500 and mentorship from Cristin, who explains how the rare opportunities she was given as a youth from a low-income community informed her entrepreneurial drive and inspired her to give back. This interview was told to Rachel Krause and has been edited for length and clarity.

I was 23, the year was 2011, and I was a recent college graduate. I lived in New York City at the time and it was really tough to get a job after the financial crisis. I got an offer to work at an advertising agency, but I ended up turning it down because I just felt intuitively that being stuck in the corporate world was not for me. I wanted to keep in the gig economy. I grew up with a single mother who was in and out of jail on small charges; she had two to three jobs at all times, and she was always hustling, so I think I picked that up from her.

I was looking for every side hustle there was to make money on my own schedule, doing plus-size modeling and appearing on reality TV — anywhere I could get cash. I just knew I didn’t want to subscribe to the same day-in, day-out life, but I was like, What am I going to do? I have to make money. I’ve got to figure this out.

I went to a hair salon one day to get a blowout and they were talking about a new type of hair extension, the tape-in ones that hide seamlessly under your hair. I love very big hair and I love extensions, but these were something like $800. I couldn’t afford that, but I went to see if I could buy something similar online. To my surprise, with a little bit of research, I found that you couldn’t. I had $1,500. I used $500 to build a website, $500 for product, and $500 for marketing, and started Glam Seamless with no other resources, no money from anyone. I didn’t even have a business plan or any of that — I just knew that I loved the product.

I really didn’t have any money, so I did a lot of free marketing tactics. I’d write blogs and do YouTube videos talking about different types of extensions, how to wear extensions, which extensions are best for you… What I didn’t know was that when you’re an entrepreneur, you actually work double what you would have in a corporate job. I know it sounds very cliche, but in those early years, I was working 80- or 90-hour weeks and didn’t even realize it because I had so much fun writing articles about extensions. I chose something that I was super passionate about, and I think my customers understood that. We didn’t overcharge for really high-quality extensions that you could previously only get in salons, and people were just thrilled.

What started as a side hustle quickly became a multi-million-dollar company. Now, if you Google my name, you’ll see the phrase “self-made” pop up all over the place, but that doesn’t capture the whole truth. None of us become ourselves without the help of others. When I was nine, I was given the once-in-a-lifetime chance to attend a boarding school for low-income kids. Opportunity is the one thing that helped me escape poverty, so when I look at my life and what really matters here, it’s not the money, it’s not what magazine my company was featured in. What really matters is the impact of giving back.

I’d been working on a non-profit, and then COVID-19 hit. I thought, How am I going to do this? How am I going to get women together and hold seminars and events and mentoring? So I came up with the Alexandra Cristin Foundation, where women-identifying individuals who want to further their education or professional skills can get need-based grants, scholarships, and mentoring by me. This foundation is really about providing opportunity — it’s a hand up, not a handout. This past year has been so crazy, and a lot of us are reevaluating our lives. I want to bring a group of women together to provide support and community.

The core of our mission at Glam Seamless is to empower women, and I want to inspire confidence and resourcefulness through both funding and mentorship, because I know those are hard to find on your own. We all admire beauty, but what we really see is the energy a person carries through their confidence. I don’t really think it has anything to do with how you look — it’s about how you feel. We’re going to be doing two rounds of grant scholarships a year to women ages 15 and up within the US. In this first round, we’re giving out 40 different scholarships for $2,500 each. That’s enough to get a business off the ground and change the course of your life.

The financial fallout of the pandemic highlights the deep disparities of our country. The bitter irony of poverty is that we feel the least freedom to use our resources creatively when we are in need, but our times of need are the ones that call for creativity most. My dream as an entrepreneur is to see businesses emerge in, by, and for low-income communities. For this to happen, the entrepreneurs will need to come from low-income communities, not outside of them. And these entrepreneurs will need to be resourceful, even courageous, with what little they’ve been given — perhaps a small grant, or even a stimulus check. Even as poverty creates barriers for those trying to escape it, opportunities for innovation and entrepreneurship remain, born out of necessity.

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In 2012, The Lip Bar founder Melissa Butler was working as a financial analyst in New York City when, frustrated by the lack of inclusive, high-quality cosmetics at reasonable prices, she started making vegan lipsticks in her kitchen. Today, nine years since crafting that first homemade tube, Butler’s passion project-turned-immensely popular (and Michelle Obama-approved) brand is set to drop at Walmart stores and online at Walmart.com — with a range of brand-new product offerings, to boot. The news coincides with another big announcement from Butler and her team: The Lip Bar is rebranding as TLB Beauty, with a fresh new look to match.

The brand’s trajectory is a success story by any standards, but as Butler explains ahead, the path from Shark Tank rejection to lining shelves at the country’s biggest retailers hasn’t always been smooth. The following interview was told to Rachel Krause and has been edited for length and clarity.

When I started The Lip Bar, I knew nothing about business. I was working on Wall Street, which people think is really fancy, but it didn’t teach me about running a small business. People know my Shark Tank story: They were mean, they called us horrible names, we didn’t get investment, and we kept going. Now we’re in Walmart and Target — triumphant, right?

That’s the story so many people tell, and while it’s true, it misses the journey. There are parts of the story that are far more rewarding than “proving the sharks wrong,” which we never cared to do; or the parts that were far more painful, like when I did salary reductions at the start of COVID-19 because we were so uncertain about what the future held. I sat on my couch and cried like a baby as I typed the email, letting my all-women team know that we would be able to keep everyone employed, but with a 20% salary decrease. Running a business has never been easy, but it’s always been fulfilling.

From the start, it was important for me that The Lip Bar be easy to find and easy to purchase for our customers, from a price and quality perspective. When people create companies, they rarely say, “I want to create products that are going to be cheap in cost but high in quality.” There hasn’t been a model that associates quality with affordability, so most small-business owners create products that are prestige in nature. I went the road less traveled, and for a while I suffered for it. Even today, I think about how many products we need to sell to hit our goals. Most products that are vegan, cruelty-free, highly pigmented, and in cool packaging cost 30-40% more than what I charge for my products. I’m really proud of that, but it’s also something that we have to navigate every day.

“Authenticity” is one of those words that has become wildly popular in marketing, like “diversity.” It’s buzzy, but it doesn’t make the customer feel good. They don’t hear that and immediately think, “Yeah, that’s the company I should support.” They’re more sophisticated than that. They see when you don’t respond to the questions in the comments, they see the models you choose to represent your business. We’re choosing models who we think represent beauty — even if we’re challenging people to think more broadly about what beauty is. As a kid, I grew up thinking you had to be light-skinned with long hair for boys to like you. It was ridiculous, but it was the experience of so many girls I knew. When I started The Lip Bar, I made sure to give visibility to all shapes, sizes, and complexions of women to say, “Hey, there is no beauty standard. Fuck everything you learned as a kid that made you dislike yourself a little. You are the standard. You are enough.”

This wasn’t a marketing tactic: It was a feeling. It was something I believed so deeply and wanted other little girls to believe, so they could grow up loving themselves a little more. So sure, TLB Beauty is certainly authentic, but more than anything, we’re just honest. We’re honest about the fact that it’s rare to see women past a certain age represented in beauty, or the fact that you honestly don’t need that many beauty products. Some would say it’s counterproductive to business to remind my would-be makeup customers that you should buy fewer products, but it’s the truth! We don’t need 25 lipsticks and we certainly don’t need to spend more than 15 minutes on our faces. Now, if you do it because you love it, great! But so many people do it because they think they have to so they can more easily fit in with societal standards.

I tell all of my mentees: Everyone can be a CEO, but you have to work at being a leader. It requires emotional intelligence and the willingness to optimize to be your best self and make your organization as strong as possible. You have to be ready to have a solution-based approach for any and every challenge that you face. Shipment two months late? Breathe and focus on the pivot. Best employee tries to quit? Pause and ask yourself why they aren’t seeing value in the organization. Brand name doesn’t quite fit your vision for the company’s future? Change it.

This one was painful — but you can either watch things deteriorate that you know need attention or you can work towards a thoughtful solution. When I named the company The Lip Bar, my vision was that we would be a lip-only emporium. Now, nine years later, we have evolved in a major way, and The Lip Bar as a name simply doesn’t work. I’ve fought with this name change for maybe four or five years, and it would have been easier to do it then than it is now. But there’s never a wrong time to do what’s right. TLB Beauty is a nod to timeless beauty, which we all are, and a belief that beauty shouldn’t be time-consuming.

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The connection between skin and mental health has never been clearer — and, in times of stress and uncertainty, a skin-care routine can be as much of a daily grounding practice as exercise or meditation. In our Shelf Care series, we’re exploring how taking care of your skin and yourself is one and the same.

Lucy Boynton has moved seamlessly between TV and the silver screen over the past few years with starring roles in the blockbuster Bohemian Rhapsody and The Politician on Netflix. But just as the British actress — and the face of Chloé’s newest fragrance, Rose Tangerine Eau de Toilette — was gearing up to play Marianne Faithfull in the titular biopic Faithfull, 2020 had something else in store: lockdown. Ahead, Boynton explains how her priorities have shifted since she went from red carpets to reading in the bath. The following interview was told to Rachel Krause and edited for length and clarity.

My beauty routine was already pretty simple before the start of the pandemic, but I guess it became more orientated around feeling well, as opposed to doing it for an aesthetic outcome. I feel better in every way when I’m looking after myself properly, so I make a conscious effort to make some form of self-care habitual. The way I do so varies, but in terms of beauty, even just making that time to nurture yourself and take time away from everything else feels important, and can’t help but be therapeutic.

As soon as I get too stressed, I escape to a bath. It just forces you to slow down, pause, and escape your phone. Unscented Epsom bath salts, a Le Labo candle, a glass of wine, and a book or magazine is the dream bath scenario. Olaplex No.3 treatment is a must, and I leave it on as long as I can. Christophe Robin’s blue hair mask is another must to take the warm tones out of my blonde — it also leaves your hair so silky. I love Virtue’s shampoo and conditioner, then Weleda Wild Rose Body Moisturizer for after.

Otherwise, I pretty much just cleanse and moisturize. I usually use Weleda products as they’re the gentlest on my skin, which is super sensitive. I alternate between products, but the Gentle Cleansing Milk is my go-to and the Skin Food cream is so rich and hydrating. If I’m working, then my morning routine will include eye pads and a face roller and all that de-puffing jazz, and the evening will be about scrubbing off the day. I love a face mask at the end of the day, and those mad-looking LED light masks at any time of day. During lockdown, Chloé Rose Tangerine Eau de Toilette has helped me feel slightly more put together. In normal life, it’s just a perfect final touch.

I take a pretty light and pragmatic approach to the whole beauty thing. I just do whatever works for me and have fun with it. I think the conversation within and around the beauty industry is changing more and more, and hopefully becoming less prescriptive and more open to eclectic interpretation. One of the best bits about working with artists like Jo Baker is the experimentation and the opportunity for expression. Learning to have fun with it, utilizing it in a way that feels good and empowering, and realizing that there are no boundaries or rules to it all has been exciting.

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Warning: This story contains spoilers for Hollywood, now streaming on Netflix.

Ryan Murphy’s Hollywood is sexy and aspirational, a revisionist history played out by beautiful people in beautiful clothes speaking in beautiful (and, as Holland Taylor’s incisive studio executive Ellen Kincaid reveals, completely fabricated) Mid-Atlantic accents. But the series wastes no time in establishing the fact that life in post-World War II Tinseltown isn’t all glitzy galas and dream dinner guests: It’s an industry rife with racism, nepotism, homophobia, sexual abuse, and crushed dreams scattered like ashes at the foot of the Hollywood sign.

So how do you create something so visually arresting without losing sight of its dark, seedy underbelly? For Michelle Ceglia, hair department head, and Eryn Krueger Mekash, makeup department head and producer for the show, finding that balance meant staying true to the reality of the era — rather than the glossy, retrofitted version of events we often see played out in 21st-century movies and TV.

“It’s very bittersweet,” Mekash says, of the contrast between silver-screen glamour and the decidedly less attractive inner workings of the industry, both of which are depicted in Hollywood in equal measure. “The subject matter [shows] how badly people were treated, the behind-the-scenes things they had to cover up.” For the most part, the seven-episode series is a work of fiction, but the stories it tells are plausible for the time period: a silent-movie actress (played to perfection by Patti LuPone) forced to give up her career after being labeled too “Jew-y” for talkies; a young Black, gay screenwriter who does sex work to stay afloat financially.

As writers went for realism in the storylines, Ceglia and Mekash focused on the same for the visuals. “We were sticklers for authentic pictures from that time period,” Ceglia says. They looked to vintage yearbooks and family photos, rather than stylized pin-up images, for inspiration when bringing characters like aspiring actress Camille Washington (Laura Harrier) to life. “It was a glamorous time period. It was post-war, it was optimistic, it was the ‘lipstick era.’ It was all about looking really polished every day,” Mekash says.

On the subject of lipstick, all the ’40s-era red lip colors you see in the show are as close to the real deal as possible without pulling a chalky tube out of a museum display case: Mekash swears by Bésame Cosmetics, a makeup line by cosmetic historian Gabriela Hernandez that specializes in reproducing vintage products and pigments. “There were only three or four reds you could use in that time period, and that’s what we did,” she says. “There’s a brighter red, a deeper red, and then a dark red. We wanted it to be very authentic.”

Recreating the hair looks didn’t just mean pin curls and roller sets — and wigs, which Ceglia says nearly every cast member was wearing. Her team also had the task of perfecting an easily overlooked detail: true-to-time period hair color, decades before balayage and babylights came to be. “There was a lot of painting people’s hair to get to those very natural tones with a lot of solid colors,” Ceglia says.

With more than 40 makeup and hair people behind the scenes, and as many as 350 background extras on any given day, Ceglia and Mekash had their work cut out for them to recreate such a specific place in time on such a grand scale (and that’s not even to mention the prosthetics, which Jim Parsons and Jake Picking wore as Henry Willson and Rock Hudson, respectively).

“It was crazy,” Mekash says. “But it’s so fun and rewarding, and everyone loves to make it all come true. You have the glamorous ladies like Patti LuPone, and Laura [Harrier] and Samara [Weaving, who plays Claire], and they’re just such beautiful women walking around with these amazing clothes on. It’s transformative, and you really have to stand back and look at it all — and the cars, too.”

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The Song of Songs, also known as the Song of Solomon, is an anomaly in the Hebrew Bible, or any ancient religious canon, for that matter. It’s Biblical smut, basically, a steamy celebration of sexual love, an erotic discourse between two romantic partners. Toward the end of the Song, there is a detailed prescription for the perfect garden, one which She passionately beseeches the winds of the north and the south to “blow on,” so that “its fragrance may spread everywhere.”

And in this sexy garden, you will find henna and saffron, calamus and cinnamon, myrrh and aloe, every kind of incense tree, and all the finest spices. And nard. Quite a bit of nard. These people really, really loved nard, the common name for nardus, the name given by the Ancient Greeks to a flowering plant sold frequently in the Syrian city of Naarda — the flowering plant we now know as lavender.

Fast forward a few thousand years, give or take, and lavender is everywhere: in aromatherapy, in cleaning supplies, in medicine cabinets, in your store-bought Herbs de Provence, in fragrant sachets you can stash in your underwear drawer, on the Hadid family’s farm in Pennsylvania, and, perhaps most of all, in beauty products. Lavender is the skin-care industry’s undisputed favorite essential oil, a (supposedly) miraculous panacea touted for its (supposed) antiseptic, antibacterial, acne-fighting, skin-soothing, stress-reducing benefits. But there is reason to believe that its status as nature’s greatest cure-all has been vastly overstated, to the point that the beauty world’s obsession with its topical use — particularly when it’s of unclear quality or concentration — could be causing some consumers more harm than good.

What can’t be overstated is just how popular lavender essential oil really is, and how many ways in which it can be used. There are hundreds of articles posted online from the US National Library of Medicine documenting studies of Lavandula angustifolia and its derivatives as a potential treatment for everything from agitated behavior in dementia patients to restless leg syndrome. And all of the doctors that I spoke to agreed that lavender oil is “generally” beneficial for “most” people as an ingredient in skin care, provided it’s properly diluted and plays well with the rest of the formulation — a somewhat frustrating conclusion for me, a person who sees lavender not as a necessity for a sweet Biblical garden but one of my skin’s worst allergy triggers.

As it happens, lavender essential oil, even in its most watered-down form, is a common allergen. “Lavender contains geraniol, linalool, and linalyl acetate,” Purvi Parikh, MD, an allergist and immunologist with Allergy & Asthma Network, tells me. “All three are known contact allergens, meaning they cause rashes that look like eczema or poison ivy.” For most skin types, a couple of allergens here and there are nothing to call your dermatologist about, but, as Dr. Parikh says, people allergic to other contact allergens are at a significantly higher risk of developing adverse reactions to lavender oil.

Dermatologist Heidi Waldorf, MD, of Waldorf Dermatology Aesthetics, says the same. “Lavender oil is used in skin care because of its anti-inflammatory or calming skin properties,” she tells me, “but physical contact can cause an allergic reaction in a susceptible person.” So if you have sensitive skin — say, if cheap jewelry gives you itchy blisters and certain detergents make you break out in hives — you might want to start checking that ingredient list a little more closely, even if all the “green” beauty enthusiasts whose geode collections you envy swear up and down that a homemade blend of essential oils applied by the light of the full moon cured their hormonal cystic acne.

But if a little rash isn’t enough to turn you off the stuff, newer research suggests that there might be a much scarier, much more serious side effect: Lavender essential oil, along with tea tree, are now believed to be endocrine-disrupting chemicals after a study found that regular exposure to the common ingredients — in personal hygiene and household cleaning products — is linked to abnormal breast growth in young boys. According to researchers at the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences, a growing number of prepubertal gynecomastia cases have been reported to “coincide” with topical exposure, only for the condition to go away once they stop using products containing the oils.

So, with some damning arguments against it, what keeps bringing people back to lavender century after century? Their noses, that’s what. The spa-like scent is scientifically proven to alleviate feelings of stress and anxiety, even slowing the reaction times and working memory of stressed-out individuals. And, in a world where each news report is more panic-inducing than the last, lavender’s unparalleled ability to soothe the mind without drugs is something to be reckoned with. Curiously, nowhere in the Song of Songs does it specify whether its subjects had any contact dermatitis or abnormal breast growth.

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Humans may not hibernate in the traditional sense, but what we do all winter long is the closest equivalent: a state of relative inactivity, but for one day — New Year's Eve! — where we come out and make all the noise, drop all the balls, drink all the Champagne, and crawl back under the weighted blankets from whence we came.

Then, suddenly, it's almost spring, and we open the curtains, shake the twigs from our hair, and reacquaint ourselves with the world around us. Hello, flower! Hello, tree. Less than three months into 2020, and we already have some catching up to do — namely, what's going on out there now that the weather forecast predicts something other than 33 degrees and cloudy? What do we wear, who do we owe a text back, what do we put on our faces instead of the thickest possible moisturizer and a layer of oil on top to seal it all in?

Well, let's not get ahead of ourselves — spring isn't here quite yet, and that economy-sized jar of Vaseline still has its purpose. But with the rest of the year laid out ahead of us, there's a number of new skin-care trends set to make their way into the 2020 canon. Soon enough, the nights will be shorter, the days will be longer, and these four trends will be fueling your shopping decisions through Daylight Saving Time season and beyond.

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The giant-teddy-bear trappings of Valentine's Day may be universal symbols of commodified emotion, but February 14th is no Hallmark holiday. The name of Saint Valentine in connection with romantic love was invoked as far back as 1382, by Geoffrey Chaucer; by the 18th century, couples honored the occasion much in the way we do now, trading flowers, candy, and greeting cards (once hand-written, now mass-produced).

In the time since, we have managed to take this practice to just about the wildest possible extreme, as we often do. American shoppers are expected to spend $2.3 billion on flowers alone for Valentine's Day this year, according to the National Retail Federation — much of that, it is safe to assume, on roses. Roses are the flowers we give on Valentine's Day and for other love reasons, ever since Victorian men would send them to women as a secret way to say "I love you" and probably also "I am going to poison your husband."

That's the other thing about roses: They die. So why say it with roses when you can say it with things that smell like roses? Fill your studio kitchen with the wafting scent of bright-red blooms for a few days before beauty turns to decay, or smell like you just popped out of the bouquet yourself for as long as the bottle lasts. Buy it for a loved one, or be your own Valentine's Day gift with these seven rose fragrances that will save at least a dozen stems on airfare from Colombia.

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The night before Kobe Bryant died tragically in a helicopter crash on Sunday alongside his 13-year-old daughter Gianna (aka Gigi) and seven other passengers, he took to Twitter to congratulate his longtime friend and fellow Los Angeles Laker LeBron James on beating his own all-time scoring record to become the third-highest point scorer in NBA history. “Continuing to move the game forward @KingJames. Much respect my brother,” Bryant tweeted, in what would be his last public message.

On Monday, the day after news of Bryant’s sudden death shook the world, James responded to the horrific event on Instagram, mourning his mentor, brother, and friend. “Man I sitting here trying to write something for this post but every time I try I begin crying again just thinking about you, niece Gigi and the friendship/bond/brotherhood we had,” he wrote. Now, the NBA star just unveiled a permanent tribute to Bryant: a detailed tattoo — by artist Vanessa Aurelia — on his upper leg of a black mamba snake in reference to Bryant’s nickname, flanked by roses and the numbers “24” and “8,” which he’d used on his jerseys. Beneath the illustration is script that simply reads, “Mamba 4 Life.”

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❤️ My brother ♾ #Mamba4Life #RIPKobe #RIPGiGi

A post shared by LeBron James (@kingjames) on Jan 31, 2020 at 4:21pm PST

The first slide of the gallery is an image of the two sitting courtside together, with James’ head leaning lovingly on Bryant’s shoulder. By way of a caption, James wrote, “My brother ♾ #Mamba4Life #RIPKobe #RIPGiGi.” It’s an incredibly moving tribute not just to Bryant, but to his daughter Gigi, whose own love of basketball earned her the nickname “Mambacita.” This likely isn’t the last we’ll see of inked tributes to the late sports hero — but given James’ close longtime relationship to the Bryant family, it is one of the most powerful.

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First, they came for our closets, replacing our sturdy leather totes with bamboo clutches full of holes. Then, they came for our kitchens, eschewing our standard-issue Ikea skillets for enamel cookware in every color of the rainbow. Now, they’re coming for our faces, inviting us to trade in what our parents gave us for plumper lips, sharper cheekbones, wider eyes, and higher arches.

We are fated to be influenced by Instagram trends, in life as in grid. But while you can click on an image of a marble cheeseboard and have the very same one en route to your doorstep in seconds (and the cheese, too, while you’re at it), there’s no Shop button for Bella Hadid’s sexy, feline stare just yet. There is, however, the Botox brow lift, an increasingly popular procedure that yields more defined brows and a more youthful, awake-looking eye area with just a few strategically placed taps of the syringe. The difference is subtle but significant — and a lot more common than you’d think.

What is a Botox brow lift?

“Botox” is the operative word here: A true brow lift, also called a forehead lift, is a surgical procedure that involves physically lifting the muscles and subcutaneous tissue, raising the brow area in the process. A Botox brow lift achieves a similar effect — without the use of invasive surgery.

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After 40 hours on the plane this week it feels oh so nice to be back in NYC for a day with my twin flames @samvissermakeup @jennifer_yepez bringing Belinda alive this morn. Boom

A post shared by Bella (@bellahadid) on Oct 29, 2019 at 8:54am PDT

Patients often reference photos of Bella Hadid when requesting a Botox brow lift, though the model has never said she underwent the procedure.

“A Botox brow lift is a procedure when you give a temporary lift to the eyebrows through strategic use of a neurotoxin,” explains dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD. By using the injectable to relax the muscles that drag the brows down, the upward-pulling muscle of the forehead can do its thing unchecked. “This will cause a physical lift of the brows for as long as the toxin remains active, usually between three and five months,” says Dr. Zeichner.

How does a brow lift with Botox work?

In addition to being a great potential band name, the corrugators (known colloquially as the “11s”) are the muscles that cause the vertical lines between the eyebrows. “The corrugators are depressors of the inner part of the eyebrow,” says facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dara Liotta, MD, FACS. “If you make a mean face and look in the mirror, you can see how the brow comes down in the inner part.” When you relax those muscles, the front half of the brow stays lifted.

That leaves the outer portion of the eyebrow up to the lateral depressor, which is called the orbicularis oculi muscle. “The lateral depressor is the circular muscle that goes around the eye and gives us crow’s feet when we smile,” Dr. Liotta explains. “Relaxing specific parts of that muscle, which pulls down the arch and outer corner of the brow, lets the arch float upwards.”

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. Cheeks + Lips + Brow Lift . . Over 3 sessions, we gradually built this beauty’s lips and cheeks with filler and lifted her brows with Botox. Layering is the best way to get the most naturally-looking results. * * What do you think of her resikrs❓❓

A post shared by Sarah Hamilton FACE (@sarahhamilton_face) on Dec 17, 2019 at 6:56pm PST

Why are Botox brow lifts so popular?

“There’s definitely an increased demand because of celebrities, in addition to Instagram filters, which tend to raise the arch of the brow,” says Dr. Liotta. Just how high is that demand? “I perform about 5-10 Botox brow lifts per day, either alone or in combination with other injectable procedures,” she says.

“Currently the popular shape of the brows is full and arched,” says Dr. Zeichner. “Patients are seeing these images all over the media and on the internet. They’re coming in asking what they can do to open their eyes and raise their eyebrows — many are even specifically asking for Botox brow lifts.” A more visible eyelid as a result of the lift also means a larger canvas for eye makeup, which Dr. Zeichner says is a selling point for many of his patients.

“I perform about 5-10 Botox brow lifts per day.”

Dara Liotta, MD, FACS

Who should get a Botox brow lift?

“Anyone is a candidate for a Botox brow lift,” says Dr. Liotta. “The amazing — and annoying — thing about Botox is that it’s not permanent. You can try it, and if you don’t like it, don’t do it again.” If you decide the procedure is right for you, it takes all of 30 seconds to complete, and doesn’t result in any bruising or downtime (though there may be some initial redness or small bumps at the injection site, which is completely normal).

With that in mind, however, “Botox brow lifts are an art, and you need to seek out an expert,” says Dr. Liotta. “If the Botox is placed incorrectly, it can actually flatten the brow arch, and could even lead to a droopy eyelid.” As always, it’s important to do your research when it comes to finding the right board-certified practitioner.

How much does a Botox brow lift cost?

Depending on where you live and how much product is used, both doctors estimate anywhere between $500 to $1,000 per session, with results lasting up to six months. If you can’t swing it with your budget, there’s still time to add it to your holiday wishlist.

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