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When He Was 28, My Father Was Tortured For Demanding Freedom; That’s Exactly Why I Protest Today

September 23, 2021BruceDayne

Like many first-generation Latinx people living in the United States, I grew up hearing stories of liberation movements, government brutality, extreme political unrest, and the life-or-death decision to leave home. Listening to my father’s stories of the coup d’état and authoritarian civic-military dictatorship in Uruguay that drove him to flee his homeland, I can’t ignore the stark contrasts I experience while protesting for freedom, human rights, and justice.

Uruguay may be seen as the progressive darling of Latin America for the country’s secular legislation, extensive LGBTQ+ rights, dedication to clean energy, legal abortion access, and cannabis legalization, but not long ago the country was known as the torture chamber of Latin America. “State terrorism in Uruguay disrupted the history of the most democratic country in Latin America, leaving a legacy of repression, torture, exile, and the disappearances of 197 people,” Nelson Villarreal Durán, the former Uruguayan Secretary of Human Rights, tells Refinery29 Somos. “Transforming the roles of the state into aggression and violence against citizens legitimized terrorism as a form of public policy.”

From 1973 to 1985, the Uruguayan dictatorship aimed to suppress the left-wing Tupamaros (Tupas) guerrilla group, many of whom were members of the legal Communist Party, which was not affiliated with the Soviet Union. It was commonplace for the military to round up Tupas. Meanwhile, anyone believed to be associated with them were forcefully arrested and saw their human rights violated, including my father. An astounding 2% of the Uruguayan population was imprisoned during the military regime—the highest global incarceration per capita to date.

Diego Garcia, a 65-year-old doctor who asked to use a pseudonym, was a medical student during the state-sanctioned violence. One night, while he was studying in the anatomy lab, military forces broke in and held the students against the wall at gunpoint. “We just had to wait, try not to move, and see what would happen. I was there for a few hours, but it felt like a lifetime,” Garcia recalls.

According to Garcia, the incident wasn’t unique. The military regularly harassed and arrested students. In the prisons, guards raped women in front of their partners and tortured people to death, all because “they thought they were managing money for the communists.”

While Garcia was never arrested or tortured, my father wasn’t so lucky. When he was 24, my father played on a state basketball team in Uruguay. “They wrongfully suspected me of being involved with the Tupamaros because, unbeknownst to me, my roommate was a Tupa,” he tells me. For this, he was kidnapped, imprisoned, interrogated, and tortured.

Military personnel forced him to stand in a patio of water and shocked him with a cattle prod. Today, his legs are still covered in scars. Once he was released, he fled Uruguay on foot without notifying his family. He walked and hitchhiked across 5,000 miles, reaching Mexico six months later. “I left my family, my country, and my friends,” he says.

My father was just one of the 10% of Uruguayans who fled the country during the 12-year dictatorship. He left because he feared the next time the military took him in for questioning, he’d go “missing” like hundreds of others. There are at least 197 Uruguayan detainees whose fates are still unknown. They’re called Desaparecidos—the disappeared.

Graciela Montes de Oca Correa, 57, is a member of the Madres y Familiares de Uruguayos Detenidos Desaparecidos (Madres y Familiares), an association that has been demanding answers about the Desaparecidos since the fall of the military regime. Her father, Otermín Montes de Oca, was a Uruguayan Communist, and has been missing since he was taken into military custody on December 17, 1975.

“One night, a group of soldiers dressed in civilian clothes arrived at my house carrying guns and took my father into custody,” she remembers. “They broke everything in the house. Two of them stayed for three days, watching us. We weren’t allowed to go out or open windows and doors.” As soon as the intruders left with her father, her family began their search. But the military denied he was taken.

Montes de Oca Correa and her family chose to remain in Uruguay during the dictatorship, holding out hope that he’d eventually come home alive. When the dictatorship ended and the last political prisoner was freed, they continued to look for him. “I was hoping to find him alive in a crowd. No one ever gave us his body. When they told us he was dead, I refused to believe it,” she says. “It took years to accept the reality that he’d never return home. They murdered him.”

Otermín’s 24-year-old granddaughter, Laura Boiani Montes de Oca, is outraged that her grandfather’s remains are still being held hostage. “The forced disappearance is a permanent crime that never ends,” she says. “Without the truth, we can’t close this chapter of our history.”

Many other Uruguayan millennials face the pain of not knowing what happened to their missing relatives. Carolina Carretero Silva’s aunt María del Rosario Carretero is a Desaparecida. “One lives, loves, longs for a person, in my case my aunt whom I never knew,” she says. “I always had the illusion that one day she would turn up alive. That never happened.”

Carretero Silva got involved in Madres y Familiares where members have shared stories with her about her aunt. She’s joined their efforts in demanding justice. “We need to know what happened to every one of the Desaparecidos,” she says. “Our relatives wanted a fairer world.”

While the previous 15-year government led by the left-wing Frente Amplio party focused on reform, recent history still haunts some elder Uruguayans who cannot possibly see protest as a human right without consequence—my father included. Fighting for human rights is my birthright, and I do everything within my power to stand up against injustice. I attended my first protest when I was 17. My father begged me not to go; his trauma makes it impossible for him to feel like I’m safe demanding justice. As I marched down a street in Los Angeles, lending my presence to the anti-war movement, I was terrified when I spotted snipers. My friends reassured me they were there for my safety, but I couldn’t help but feel like I had a target on my back.

More than a decade later, I feel it’s my duty to use my privilege to protest. I’ve joined human rights demonstrations around the world, from an anti-Trump rally in Madrid to a Women’s March protest in Jodhpur, India. I’m always afraid. Watching the police violence in the U.S. during Black Lives Matter demonstrations has made me realize that safety while protesting, even in the U.S., is an illusion. But I won’t be discouraged.

Young Uruguayans are known to stage large demonstrations, shutting down major streets each year for International Women’s Day, PRIDE, and animal rights. In 1996, Madres y Familiares organized the first annual Marcha del Silencio. Ever since, Uruguayans gather on May 20 to peacefully and silently march, carrying photos of the Desaparecidos and advocating for the unaccounted disappeared detainees.

“It’s so silent,” Garcia says. “That silence goes to the bones. We must remember. We can’t forget.”

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Top 15 Parfums De Marly Colognes For Men

September 23, 2021BruceDayne

In the world of men's fragrances, Parfums de Marly is a relatively new kid on the block but they've already built up a reputation as an exquisite, niche fragrance house.

Founded in 2009, their fragrances are inspired by the “golden age of perfumery” – the 18th Century French era. Think luxury, splendor, decadence, and fragrance recipes inspired by the court of King Louis XV.

The result? Unique, bold fragrances that leverage exotic fruits, florals, spices, and woods to make you smell and feel like royalty.

And with over 30 colognes available, you'll want to know which is right for you.

Good news – we've put each and every one through its paces. In this article, we're giving you our top 15 Parfums de Marly fragrances.

In this article, you'll find:

What Does Parfums de Marly Mean?

Parfums de Marly is named after “Château de Marly,” a French royal residence that once stood near Versailles.

During this period, King Louis XV's love for fine fragrances flowered into a “golden age” for men's perfume.

Louis XV enjoyed not only fine perfume, but he also had a love for horses. So much so that he commissioned fragrances named after some of his most prized steeds.

Depicted on each bottle of de Marly are two horses – a nod to King Louis XV's passion for all things equine. Between the rearing horses, “1742” is emblazoned on a shield – the year Louis commissioned his ‘Marly Horses' fragrances.

Fast forward 200 years and Julian Sprecher, a lover of history and fragrances, created Parfum de Marly after working in his family business distributing fragrances across the Middle East and Asia.

Now, without further ado – let's count down from 15!

#15 Parfums De Marly – Kalan

Kalan is a unique, exciting, and – dare we say it – polarizing fragrance. The strong opening of blood orange and pepper isn't for everyone.

Kalan is warm and spicy, with an earthy and woody dry down. It performs incredibly well, lasts a long time and is perfect for fall and winter.

Top Notes: Spices, Blood Orange, Black Pepper and Spices
Heart Notes: Lavender and Orange Blossom
Base Notes: Woody Notes, Moss, Tonka Bean, White Sandalwood and Amber
Sillage: Strong
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: Fall and winter. The perfect scent for the festive season

This article is sponsored by Parfums de Marly but don't let that fool you into thinking we're biased because out of the 15 fragrances in today's list, we'd bought 10 with our own money, long before writing this article!

But let's face it – you can read about fragrances all you want but there comes a time you need to try them.

Click here to discover Parfum de Marly for yourself!

#14 Parfums De Marly – Byerly

Byerly was created in honor of ‘Byerley Turk' – one of three stallions that were the founders of the modern Thoroughbred horse racing bloodstock. This masculine, woody, earthy fragrance is deceptively simple and reminds us of freshly sawn wood.

The vetiver component of Byerly really shines as it rounds off the woody notes of this masterpiece.

Top Notes: Cardamom and Bergamot
Heart Notes: Cedar and Guaiac Wood
Base Notes: Vetiver and Resin
Sillage: Moderate
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: A day scent, to wear during spring and fall

#13 Parfums De Marly – Percival

Percival is a fresh, versatile fragrance with a surprising woody base. It's a clean, modern fragrance that is reminiscent of the ocean. We'd describe this as likable, familiar and versatile. A couple of sprays of Percival and you're going to get compliments.

Top Notes: Lavender, Mandarin Orange, Bergamot and Geranium
Heart Notes: Hedione, Coriander, Jasmine, Violet and Cinnamon
Base Notes: Ambroxan, Balsam Fir, Amberwood, Clearwood and Musk
Sillage: Moderate
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: A fresh scent to wear during a warm day of spring or summer

#12 Parfums De Marly – Akaster

Akaster is a decadent fragrance with strong projection. With a rich oud base note, this is a powerful scent. There's a reason that oud is known by many as “liquid gold.” Due to its unmatched aromatic profile, oud is one of the most coveted perfume ingredients in the world.

Top Notes: Cypress and Lemon
Heart Notes: Bulgarian Rose and African Geranium
Base Notes: Agarwood (Oud), Cardamom, and Musk
Sillage: Strong
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: Perfect for wearing in the fall

#11 Parfums De Marly – Sedley

Described by Parfum de Marly as “light, forceful and fresh“, Sedley is a woody fragrance that begins with a bang of mint and sweet citrus. This is a mature, yet fresh scent that you can wear all summer long.

Top Notes: Mint, Lemon, Bergamot, Grapefruit, and Mandarin Orange
Heart Notes: Lavender, Rosemary, Olibanum, and Geranium
Base Notes: Ambroxan, Vetiver, Cashmeran, Sandalowood, Cedar, and Patchouli
Sillage: Moderate
Longevity: Moderate
Best time to wear: During spring and summer, for a day by the sea

#10 Parfums De Marly – Godophin

The name “Godophin” comes from Louis XV's famed Godolphin Arabian, a horse that was the leading sire in Ireland and in Great Britain in the mid-18th century. This refined scent has impressive sillage and incorporates leather and fruity notes.

Top Notes: Fruity Notes, Saffron, Mate, Thyme, Cypress, and Green Notes
Heart Notes: Rose, Orris, and Jasmine
Base Notes: Leather, Amber, Vetiver, Musk, Virginia Cedar, and Vanilla
Sillage: Strong
Longevity: Eternal
Best time to wear: Day and night, fall and winter

#9 Parfums De Marly – Pegasus

Beginning with strong heliotrope, which blends with almond, sandalwood, and vanilla, Pegasus is a scent you won't forget. This amber fougère fragrance is one that you have to try for yourself.

Top Notes: Heliotrope, Cumin, and Bergamot
Heart Notes: Bitter Almond, Lavender, and Jasmine
Base Notes: Vanilla, Sandalwood, and Amber
Sillage: Strong
Longevity: Eternal
Best time to wear: Spring, fall and winter, day and night

#8 Parfums De Marly – Greenley

Greenley is a citrus aromatic fragrance. As the name (and the bottle) suggest, this is a very green scent, starting with green apple and with oak and amber wood coming through as it begins to dry down. Greenley is a fantastic spring and summer fragrance.

Top Notes: Green Apple, Calabrian Bergamot. and Mandarin Orange
Heart Notes: Cashmeran, Petitgrain, Pomarose, Cedar. and Violet
Base Notes: Oakmoss, Musk, and Amberwood
Sillage: Moderate
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: During spring and summer; for a walk into the woods

#7 Parfums De Marly – Galloway

With bright citrus and fiery pepper, Galloway is a wonderful summertime fragrance. The small and hardy Galloway pony is a fitting namesake for this easy-to-wear scent.

Top Notes: Citruses and Pepper
Heart Notes: Orange Blossom and Iris
Base Notes: Musk and Amber
Sillage: Strong
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: A bright spring or summer day

#6 Parfums De Marly – Pegasis Exclusif

Pegasus Exclusif has a sweet, woody scent. It's rich, luxurious and has a somewhat darker, more mysterious profile than the original Pegasus formula.

Top Notes: Cardamom, Heliotrope, Pink Pepper, and Bergamot
Heart Notes: Bitter Almond, Lavender, Jasmine, and Geranium
Base Notes: Vanilla, Guaiac Wood, Agarwood (Oud), Sandalwood, and Amber
Sillage: Strong
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: During the colder months, or when going out on an adventure

#5 Parfums De Marly – Layton

Layton has incredible depth. It is one of those scents that after you've experienced it once, you'll from then on recognize it immediately. It begins sweet and then the rich yet complex base notes take over. This is a great year-round fragrance but especially great during the colder months.

Top Notes: Apple, Lavender, Mandarin Orange, and Bergamot
Heart Notes: Geranium, Violet and Jasmine
Base Notes: Vanilla, Cardamom, Sandalwood, Pepper, Patchouli, and Guaiac Wood
Sillage: Strong
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: All day long, from morning to evening, especially during the colder months

#4 Parfums De Marly – Herod

Herod is a refined, elegant scent best suited for colder months. It has a smoky, vanilla scent and the tobacco heart note is the star of this fragrance. Looking for a fragrance to wear on a fall date? Wear Herod.

Top Notes: Cinnamon and Pepper
Heart Notes: Tobacco Leaf, Incense, Osmanthus, and Labdanum
Base Notes: Vanilla, Iso E Super, Musk, Cedar, Cypriol Oil or Nagarmotha, and Vetiver
Sillage: Moderate
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: Fall and winter

#3 Parfums De Marly – Habdan

We love Habdan’s distinguished, smoky aroma – an aroma evocative of incense. As this fragrance deftly walks the line between sweet and spicy, it draws people in to get another whiff. Habdan is one of those fragrances you just can't stop smelling!

Top Notes: Saffron and Olibanum
Heart Notes: Apple, Woody Notes, and Rose
Base Notes: Myrrh, Caramel, and Ambergris
Sillage: Moderate
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: Cold nights, during fall and winter

#2 Parfums De Marly – Layton Exclusif

With deep woody base notes, Layton Exclusif has a darker scent than the original Layton. This striking fragrance is both sophisticated and animalistic. If you're looking for a dark, mysterious scent, Layton Exclusif is for you.

Top Notes: Almond, Mandarin Orange, Bergamot, and Watery Notes
Heart Notes: Civet, Geranium, Rose, Gardenia, and Water Lily
Base Notes: Laotian Oud, Guaiac Wood, Vanilla, Coffee, Sandalwood, Indonesian Patchouli Leaf, Oakmoss, Amber, and Pink Pepper
Sillage: Strong
Longevity: Long-lasting
Best time to wear: Fall and winter and for an elegant evening.

#1 Parfums De Marly – Carlisle

If you're looking for a signature scent – this is it! Carlisle was born to be king and has consistently been in our Top 3 fragrances. It's a masterpiece.

Formulated in 2015 and described as a “wave of freshness,” Carlisle is a rich, seductive and intoxicating fragrance that will get you compliments. Think of it as masculine and elegant, but floral and fruity.

This powerful, long-lasting fragrance starts sweet, then turns spicy before settling into a rich, vanilla-centered aroma.

Top notes: Nutmeg and Green Apple
Heart notes: Rose and Tonka Bean
Base notes: Patchouli and Vanilla
Sillage: Enormous
Longevity: Eternal
Best time to wear: Spring, fall and winter and for a special evening

Click below to watch the video – Ranking My Parfums De Marly Collection (14 Bottles) WORST To BEST!

The post Top 15 Parfums De Marly Colognes For Men appeared first on Real Men Real Style.

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DMTBeautySpot featured Khareem Sudlow

Autumn Dresses: Just Add Knitwear

September 23, 2021BruceDayne

I’ve been experimenting with ways of getting more use out of the sorts of autumn dresses I’d usually “save for best”. Dresses that I’m happy to invest in, because they are more often than not bought for a work event or a special occasion, but that then tend to sit forlornly in the wardrobe waiting for their next outing. Which is a travesty. A travesty I tell you!

Why do we always seem to spend the most money on the items we wear the least? The “only for best” shoes that we can’t even walk in (guilty of this many times over, seduced by the red soles), the ridiculous dresses that require tit tape, Spanx and someone to hold the hem as you make your way perilously from taxi to wedding reception…

So, how to get more use out of the dresses you’d usually save for best? It’s really quite easy – so much so that I’m almost embarrassed to write it out. Just add knitwear. Oh, and flat footwear. With some welcome warmth on top and a newfound ability to run for the train as the doors start to shut, the “save for best” dress becomes a daily staple – and one that’s effortlessly chic and pulled together at that.

The striking all-over print that has always felt a little much for a quick run into town suddenly takes on a new role when it’s paired with a chunky cable-knit jumper – it offers a flash of bold pattern to lift an otherwise unremarkable bit of autumnal dressing. Because what would I have on otherwise? I’ll tell you: pale blue skinny jeans. My autumn-winter uniform. Jeans and a knit, white trainers and a big coat. Isn’t it a nice change to have something bright and perky going on downstairs?

(Not to mention the fact that the maxi skirt part of the special occasion dress is a hell of a lot kinder to the undercarriage than a daily sartorial diet of tight, restrictive denim with ill-placed crotch seam.)

I’ve picked out three different autumn dresses here that all look snazzy and special for an evening out but are equally great under woolly layers and with wintery boots or trainers on the feet rather than skyscraper heels.

Autumn Dress 1: Leaf Print Shirt Dress, £39.50 at M&S*

This is a real winner, this dress, but I feel it only comes into its own when you cinch the waist with a belt.

It has been made with reams and reams of fabric and so initially I felt a little swamped when I tried it on (I think it runs on the large size) but with a belt gathering the waist, the volumes of fabric suddenly felt highly luxurious rather than unshapely.

With a V-neck jumper thrown over the top (this one is from Reiss here*) and some boots in autumnal brown (these are Carvela, here*, and supremely comfy despite the heel) it becomes a throw-on dress for everyday wear. I’d probably stick to a navy cable-knit jumper in future but was trying to be snazzy with my styling here.

(I also decided to use a stick from the woods as a prop and I’m not sure whether it’s all a bit Lord of the Rings for my liking. You live and learn.)

Buy Leaf Print Dress, £39.50 at M&S*

Buy Cora Cricket Jumper, £138 at Reiss*

Buy Wine Leather Boots, £149 at Carvela*

Buy Leather Belt, £355 at Gucci*

Autumn Dress 2: Floral Printed Midi Dress, £198 at Reiss*

This was something of a departure from the norm for me: the high-neck, the clinging fabric, the print-from-a-nineteen-sixties-sofa-set. However the gathering across the chest and back seduced me and I have no regrets: it’s “gothic heroine meets Hen Night in the West End” and I’m here for it.

On a sidenote, there were so many dresses in Reiss that I loved. I’m definitely adding them to my list of “places to always check when you need an outfit in a hurry”. The tailoring is really good and the styles are sharp and feel somehow professional. Like what I’d wear if I was the daughter in the TV show Succession.

Actually if I was the daughter in Succession and potential heir to billions of dollars then I’d probably be in head-to-toe Tom Ford and Dundas and Saint Laurent but let’s not split hairs here. Or heirs. Hohoho.

So, heroine from a gothic novel but then – what’s this? Stompy boots to bring things back down to earth:

I’ve had a good old rave about these Russell and Bromley boots already but here we go again: beautifully made and absolutely worth every penny. I’ve wanted to invest in a pair of R&Bs for decades and don’t know what took me so long, to be frank.

I particularly love that I don’t have to do up all of these laces each time, because they are fake ones. What a tease and a thrill! Every time I look at the boots to put them on, my heart sinks a little because I see the laces, but a split second later my brain kicks in and reminds me that there are zips up the sides…

It’s the ultimate emotional rollercoaster, let me tell you.

The pretty little pink cardigan is from M&S* and is made from the softest cashmere – it looks great buttoned up and tight, twinset style, but equally good thrown over a dress to keep out the autumn chill.

Buy Bobby Neutral Floral Dress, £198 at Reiss*

Buy Pink Cashmere Cardigan, £89 at M&S*

Buy Stomper Boots, £345 at Russell & Bromley

Autumn Dress 3: Flower Field Tiered Maxi Dress, £295 at Me+Em*

I mentioned in my last try-on post (for Reformation dresses, here) how I thought that Me+Em were quite literally a cut above when it comes to finish. This was the dress I was referring to. It just slipped on like a dream and hugged all the right places.

The zip-front and side stripe give it the sport-luxe feel that Me+Em are so good at and the floral print is gorgeous. It’s also incredibly easy to dress this down, perhaps because of the dipped hem which gives a less weighty feel to the front of the skirt.

Buy Tiered Dress at Me+Em*

The dipped hem is a clever trick, really; it stops you looking like one of those knitted dolly toilet roll covers. Do you remember those from years go by? Anyway, with many long dresses your feet completely disappear so that it looks as though you’re floating. With a dipped hem, you get the sense of luxurious length at the back but it shows your feet and a bit of leg at the front. Very smart.

I’ve dressed this one down with my trainers of longtime habit: Adidas Stan Smiths. These, however, are Stan Smiths with a difference: from a line called Primegreen, they are vegan and made with 50% recycled materials. If you’re looking for a leather alternative. People rave about Veja but I found them a little uncomfortable and I don’t like the yellowed sole on them…

So, Primegreen Stan Smiths on my feet (these are £75 here*) and a navy textured cashmere jumper from M&S (£79 here*). Navy jumpers seem to be my jam, these days – black feels so harsh by comparison and I feel as though it tends to wash me out. I’ve relegated all the black knitwear to the shelf, cedar wood balls sandwiched between the layers. I should get some of those vacuum storage bags really, shouldn’t I?

Buy Floral Tiered Dress, £295 at Me+Em*

Buy Navy Textured Cashmere Jumper, £79 at M&S*

Buy Primegreen Stan Smiths, £75 at Office*

Which is your favourite dress? Let me know. Along with any handy tips for dressing down the dressing up dresses.

(Sizing and shoot info: I am 5’8″ and hover between a UK10 and a UK12 in most brands. Here I’m wearing all size 10 or small. Shoe size UK6. Images shot whilst away this summer, the house was amazing – it’s here at Kate & Tom’s.)

The post Autumn Dresses: Just Add Knitwear appeared first on Ruth Crilly.

18 on Da Block via...

Certy via https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcYvNG2yD84 💰 |...

Parterre x Le Lion – Coming Soon

When He Was 28, My Father Was Tortured For Demanding Freedom; That’s Exactly Why I Protest Today

Top 15 Parfums De Marly Colognes For Men

What Does Parfums de Marly Mean?

#15 Parfums De Marly – Kalan

#14 Parfums De Marly – Byerly

#13 Parfums De Marly – Percival

#12 Parfums De Marly – Akaster

#11 Parfums De Marly – Sedley

#10 Parfums De Marly – Godophin

#9 Parfums De Marly – Pegasus

#8 Parfums De Marly – Greenley

#7 Parfums De Marly – Galloway

#6 Parfums De Marly – Pegasis Exclusif

#5 Parfums De Marly – Layton

#4 Parfums De Marly – Herod

#3 Parfums De Marly – Habdan

#2 Parfums De Marly – Layton Exclusif

#1 Parfums De Marly – Carlisle

Autumn Dresses: Just Add Knitwear

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