There’s a reason why classics are classics – they have enduring appeal because they are practical, versatile, and stylish. One of these classics is the polo shirt. Short sleeve polos have been popular for 100 years. They are comfortable, breathable, and casual yet dressy enough for most occasions. Well fitting polos can go from business casual to the beach and everywhere in-between, be worn by themselves, or used as a bottom layer, and are one of the foundational pieces of every wardrobe.

What makes a polo a polo?

Originally polos were short-sleeved shirts, although you can also find long-sleeved versions today. They can be made from a variety of fabrics such as silk, polyester, or nylon, but the original and our favorite is still cotton; it gives you the comfort and breathability you want, and looks good without wrinkling. Polos have a 2 or 3 button placket instead of buttoning all the way down the shirt. Sleeves can have a hemmed or ribbed cuff and a hemmed (not ribbed) bottom.

At Peter Manning you have a choice of two cotton fabrics and polo styles. First, you have the original polo, our James Polo Shirt that’s made from pique Pima cotton (with a hint of elastane for shape retention and stretch), ribbed collar and cuff, and a 2-button placket. Our polos are mostly solids, although some of our James Polo Shirts have a thin double contrasting stripe (or tipping) along the collar & cuff ribbing. Pique is a textured or mesh weave which makes the cotton extremely breathable even though it’s heavier than many cotton knits. Other advantages to a pique cotton is that it won’t show sweat and is extremely durable. 

Our Pocket Polo is 100% Pima cotton in a jersey or flat weave. Our classic colors come with a 3-button placket, and our seasonal colors have a 2-button placket. These polos have a chest pocket and a self-fabric collar and hemmed sleeve.

You may be wondering why we offer two variations of polos. The James Polo may be considered more sporty and casual, while the fabric and styling of the Pocket Polo more closely resembles a dress shirt. Both can be styled in a number of different ways and there is a place for both in every wardrobe. Which you choose to wear is really a matter of personal preference.

The Proper Fit

The most important element of looking good in a polo shirt is the fit. Peter Manning Polos are proportionally designed to fit the shorter man. (For help in finding your size, use the Peter Manning Proprietary Size System and size calculator.) Ill-fitting polos make you look wide, dumpy, and sloppy, rather than stylish.

The measurements to watch out for include:

• Sleeve length – Short-sleeves should hit the middle of your bicep or half-way between your shoulder and elbow. Don’t wear it any longer than 2/3 of the way down your upper arm. Long-sleeved polos should hit your wrist. Longer than these lengths will make you look like you're wearing someone else’s shirts. It’s not easy to hem ribbed cuffs so purchasing a shirt that is proportionally sized is imperative. It’s possible to shorten polos with hemmed shirt sleeves, although special machinery would be necessary to make it look right. This is the advantage to buying your polos from Peter Manning. Your shirts come with the proper sleeve length. Width-wise, the sleeve should be loose enough to slip a finger or two between your shirt and skin - although if you work out heavily this may not be possible.
• Shirt length - The other primary measurement to look for is the overall length. Polo shirts can be worn out or tucked in so the bottom hem of the shirt should be long enough to tuck in, but not be bulky. They shouldn’t hang further than the middle of your back pockets when worn untucked. Any longer and it will make your legs, and overall height look shorter. You also don’t want your shirt to hit at or above your waist. Not only won’t you be able to tuck it in, but it will look like it’s too small for you or shrunk up. Peter Manning shirt lengths run from 24 ½” to 27 ½”. For comparison-sake, Ralph Lauren polo shirts in size XS have a body length of 28” and range up to 33.5” for larger sizes.
• Shirt width - Polos aren’t meant to be either baggy or skin-tight. You should be able to pinch an inch or two on the sides. The fabric should skim over your body, not hug it too snuggly. Depending on your physique, it might fit a bit tighter in the chest, however, you don’t want them to flare out at the bottom. For this reason, most polos are made straight or only slightly tapered from the armholes to the hem.

One of things you’ll notice about most polo hems is that the back of the shirt will be up to 1” longer than the front of the shirt, often with a shallow vent between the two. This harkens back to the beginning of the polo shirt as a purely athletic garment (see the history below). With a longer back the wearer can be sure that the shirt will stay tucked in, even with rigorous activity.

One detail that you’ll appreciate about Peter Manning polos is that there is no collar label to irritate your neck. Our soft Pima cotton is all you’ll feel since our labeling is printed on the shirt.

Styling your polo

Yes, polos are casual, but dressy enough to be worn to work. The collar makes them a dressier choice than t-shirts, so they are a more versatile wardrobe option. There aren’t many shirts that look as good with shorts and jeans as they do with khakis, chinos, and even dress pants. If you want a more finished look, add a light sweater, vest, or even a sport coat. The collar lets you substitute a polo for a dress shirt without feeling as confined as you would in a woven button-up. 

If you are using your polo as part of a business casual style, the Pocket Polo may be your first choice. It’s less bulky and more closely resembles the look of a dress shirt. It will also fit better under a sport coat because the fabric is thinner. Yes, you can wear a James Polo, but pique is a bit bulkier and the ribbed collar is a bit more casual. (Note: unstructured sport coats are more appropriate with a polo than very structured jackets. Peter Manning linen, cotton, or seersucker jackets are a great option.)

While polos are extremely versatile with just about everything, there are a few don’ts that you want to pay attention to:

 

• Your polo should be the bottom layer so don’t wear a t-shirt underneath or even a second polo. That may have been a fad during the heyday of the preppy style in the 80’s, but looks dated today. If you feel the need to wear an undershirt, make sure that none of it shows outside of the polo. Better yet, don’t wear anything underneath. It merely adds bulk and wrinkles.
• Be thoughtful about popping your collar up. This, again, is a throw-back to the 80’s. The collars, especially ribbed collars, were originally designed to be able to stay popped because this served the purpose of shading athlete’s necks from sunburn.
• Logo’d polos are iconic (see history section for an explanation), but if you ever wear a polo with a logo, make sure that it’s subtle.

 

• The biggest don’t is wearing a polo that doesn’t fit correctly. Make sure the hem and sleeve lengths and width are all appropriate for your height.

Polos are so versatile that you’ll find people wearing them to work, out to dinner, and to the beach. It’s been a favorite style of athletes and celebrities. You’ll find historic photos of Sean Connery, Dean Martin, Paul Newman, Steve McQueen, Clint Eastwood, James Dean, Sidney Poitier, Pelé, and Elvis wearing polos. It’s a style that people of all heights and shapes can wear. Just about every modern celebrity has been photographed in a polo, both young and old, short and tall.

There’s a place in every wardrobe for foundational colors such as white, black, navy, and gray. There’s also a place for brights and pastels. Polos also often come in stripes and prints. The best patterns for many men are thinner horizontal or vertical stripes and smaller prints. If patterns or stripes are too bold or wide may cut the body in two. Don’t be afraid of color or the right stripes and prints - they add interest and a bright spot to your outfit. 

The origins of the polo shirt and how it got its name

The historically traditional shirt worn for polo playing was actually a woven cotton button-down shirt. They were originally worn by Indian polo players in the late 1800’s. They added buttons to the collar points to prevent them from flying into their face during the game. British soldiers adopted the fashion for polo matches and brought it back to England. The founder of Brooks Brothers saw the style on a visit and brought it to the U.S. and created “The Original Button-Down Polo Shirt” in 1896. The same shirt is still being sold today.

The very first modern polo shirt was designed and worn by John René Lacoste, a French tennis star, in the 1926 U.S. Open. Prior to this, the standard tennis outfit consisted of a long sleeve button down woven shirt (appropriated from polo players), white flannel pants and possibly a white vest and tie. This is hardly what we would consider athletic wear today, but was the standard for tennis “whites”. Lacoste’s version was a short-sleeved cotton pique with a 3-button placket…in white, of course. It afforded him greater maneuverability and was much cooler. By eliminating the collar buttons, the collar could be turned up to prevent sunburn on the wearer’s neck.

Lacoste started a company that sold his shirts toward the end of his competitive career. His nickname was “the crocodile” because of his aggressive style of play. He added a crocodile emblem on the chest as his logo. Not only was he the first athlete to have his own brand of clothing, but this is the first instance of a piece of clothing having a visible logo on it. His company, Izod, is still selling these shirts today. 

Fred Perry, another tennis player, started his own clothing company in 1954 but decided to embroider his logo (a laurel wreath) rather than glue the logo emblem on.

This doesn’t really explain how the modern “polo” is not universally known as a “tennis” shirt. There are 2 explanations that may resolve this question. First, the style was admired by British polo players and appropriated because it was cooler and allowed greater freedom of movement so it became part of the polo culture.

The basic shirt style has also been adopted by golf players and became very popular after President Eisenhower was photographed playing golf in one. The golf shirt style is most similar to the Peter Manning Polo shirts in knit and collar, but golf shirts are generally polyester or a poly/cotton blend for maximum moisture wicking ability (though less breathable). Hems on golf shirts are straight across rather than multi-level.

The next big surge in the polo shirt story is when Ralph Lauren named his company Polo by Ralph Lauren, to evoke the cache of royalty and luxury for his clothing line. He also wanted to produce clothes that would naturally age rather than stay new-looking, as popular polyester clothing did. His logo is an embroidered polo player. Even though his company was founded in 1969, it wasn’t until 1972 that he introduced his all cotton pique polo shirts in 24 colors. His marketing slogan was “it gets better with age”.

The polo shirt really hasn’t changed substantially since its inception. It’s so practical that numerous sports (tennis, golf, and polo) have all adopted it as the standard for their sport. Its popularity has stretched far beyond sports to become the standard for casual dress.

Final thoughts…

As with every piece of clothing, the most important consideration is fit. The most luxurious and expensive item will look bad if it doesn’t fit properly. Conversely, if something fits correctly, you’ll look good. At Peter Manning you’ll not only get quality Pima cotton and fine construction, but most importantly, you’ll get a proportionally sized polo that’s sure to become one of your best-loved clothing staples.

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It’s 23 degrees celsius on a late Saturday afternoon in Peckham, south-east London, and I’m squeezing my way through a dense crowd of people on Rye Lane. As I lope across the concrete pavements dotted with chewing gum, I pass shopfronts selling fresh fruit, vegetables, raw meat, fish, phone accessories, and silk scarves, I make the mistake of catching the eye of an African woman — standing by the entrance of Sky Shopping City — who waves hello and asks me if I want to braid my hair.

Teresa Johnson pulls at her multicolored cobalt blue, platinum blonde and purple Ghana braided ponytail as she escorts me to the end of the time-worn shopping centre, where the beauty salon she opened 32 years ago is still standing and well established. A vintage poster of Black women showcasing different hairstyles is plastered on the shop window, below a sign that asks clients to wear a face mask. There is no artwork on the lemon sorbet interior brick walls, just styling units and tall white cabinets stuffed with towels, wig heads, and hairstyling products, that are being shared with five other braiders who have rented a chair.

In 2012, the 45-year-old moved to Peckham after arriving at Heathrow Airport from Burkina Faso. “I was told there was a strong Black community here and the place to be if you wanted to do hair,” she says. “I’ve been doing it for over 30 years now. It’s my passion, gift, and choice of art. In fact, I was even born with hair in my hands.” In response, the salon erupts in laughter, hoping, perhaps, that Johnson is joking. “It’s God who is really sustaining us.”

“Braiding has been my lifeline… so I cried when we went into the first lockdown.”

Juliet Ogbebor-Obazee, OGB6 Beauty Palace

When Instagram hairstylists surfaced on social media, and it started to feel like the African aunties were struggling to keep up with the latest braiding trends, many young Black women stopped walking through their doors. But as more and more horror stories pile in about the last-minute cancellations, excessive fees —  where you’ll need to pay a deposit via a booking system to secure an appointment and can be charged for being late, wanting extra length or color, and of recent, even parting your hair — sometimes bad customer service, young people on social media are boycotting Instagram hairstylists, particularly those on TikTok, who are going back to Britain’s African braiders.

From ‘pick and drop’, lemonade braids to micro braids, content creator and London School of Economics law student Mary-Grace Olu, 20, thinks young Black women sometimes forget that these aunties started doing hair back when some of the trending braiding hairstyles were popularly worn. “We are just seeing the resurgence of trends, so why not give them a chance if they have got the experience and skill? Even if they haven’t done the style before, you can show them pictures,” she explains.

In collaboration with a Congolese auntie, who goes by Hair by Amanda Nice and Neat on Instagram, Olu posted a TikTok video – now with over 72,000 views – showing off her beautiful platinum blonde and pink knotless braids with curled ends, declaring her decision to join the UK girls leaving Instagram hairstylists and returning to aunties. “Amanda was scared to collaborate at first because the most she has done is paid adverts on Instagram, but it did so well, and helped her gain over 1,000 followers. I think the onus is also on millennials and Gen Z to bridge the gap and mend this broken relationship.”

@marygraceolu auntys > anyone else #ukblackgirlmakeup #london #braids #fyp ♬ new person same old mistakes – &lt/3

Many African women were brought up to have a wide set of skills across sectors, connected to industrial clusters that have prepared them for the intricacies of 21st-century entrepreneurship. It’s why some Black women spent the majority of their childhood and adolescence sitting in their salon styling chairs. From cornrows with beads to box braids, which gained popularity in the 1990s, we became so privy to the process of interlacing three or more strands of hair.

And as part of a new wave of post-Brexit migration, the number of non-EU workers coming to Britain has soared, according to a recent analysis conducted by British Future, a think tank specialising in immigration and integration. Since the number of professions that qualify for skilled visas has been expanded to include jobs, such as health and care workers, chefs, and hairdressers, work-related non-EU visas have jumped by more than 20 per cent, with Nigeria being one of the countries experiencing some of the biggest increases from 1,400 to 11,600.

Juliet Ogbebor-Obazee was 19 when she left Benin in 1994. She had just completed her hairdressing training and wanted to open her own salon before a neighbour promised her a way out of her village. But when they were separated in Lagos, Nigeria, and she found herself stuck and working as a house girl in the capital of Togo, Lomé, she knew her search for a better life in Europe was going to be an uphill battle.

She travelled from Ghana to Morocco, Spain (where she lived for 14 years and worked as a chef and part-time hairdresser with mostly white clients) Norway, and then London in 2016, where she opened her first salon in Peckham with her older sister and a woman from her local church, until she was pushed out by some members of staff. But not too long after, in January 2020, Ogbebor-Obazee collected the keys for OGB6 Beauty Palace in Crystal Palace, south London. But then the pandemic hit.

“Braiding has been my lifeline,” says the 44-year-old. “So I cried when we went into the first lockdown, because I had already paid my landlord upfront and spent all my life savings to do up the shop myself. It was just horrible. But I’m a dreamer, so I did what I do best and fight.”

Even though she doesn’t classify herself as “a social media person,” her daughter encouraged her to join Instagram and she offered a service that allowed clients to order the hair products they needed until restrictions were eased. It’s the great customer service and word of mouth that have kept her shop open. “It’s not always about money. I just want people to feel like family and comfortable enough to correct me if they don’t like how I am doing their hair,” she says. “We don’t need to take everything personally. I want all my customers, both young and old, to be happy and feel beautiful.”

“…although most of the ladies on Instagram have never worked in a salon, some of them are highly skilled. I think we can all learn from each other”

Victoria Cole, Crown and Glory 

Victoria Cole, 55, the owner of Crown and Glory in Camberwell, south London, is from the same school of thought. But whatever happened to the renowned hair salon that established such a reputation for excellence when it came to hairstyling? “We are still here,” she says with a warm smile. “We’ve just downsized. I remember when the salon used to be so full that we would be forced to use the basement. And if we didn’t open by 7:30 am, we would have a long queue stretching along Cold Harbour Lane.”

On average, Cole — who is also in the second year of her adult nursing degree at Kingston University London — would have at least 100 customers visiting her salon every day. It’s why, almost immediately, they introduced the ticket system, outdoor seating, and served snacks, to avoid seeing grown women fighting about who came first. “It was also quite tough back then too because new styles would come out so quickly and there was no YouTube you could go on to learn. You had to teach yourself.

“But my generation didn’t always value our time like this generation. We would accept the peanut money that came, just so we could survive and pay our bills. I was a mother with young children, who would sometimes be in the salon till 11:00pm.

“And although most of the ladies on Instagram have never worked in a salon, some of them are highly skilled. I think we can all learn from each other. It’s why I can’t even get upset about the prices they charge. They have encouraged me to be more marketable.”

Jennifer Olaleye, 30, who has been an influencer for over ten years, has seen the benefits of collaborating with her auntie Cecilia Okonta, 47, who has a shop called Wendy Shalom Hair and Beauty in Enfield. “She’s now on TikTok and has been doing my braids since I was 14. It’s more affordable and there’s just something about not having to jump through so many hoops to secure an appointment. Also, you can go to any hairstylist and they can get things wrong. I think people just need to be more comfortable with speaking up about what they do and don’t like.”

But since losing her full-time staff after the coronavirus pandemic hit and seeing rent prices increase by over £2000, Okonta who left Nigeria in 2004 after studying hairdressing at The Polytechnic Ibadan and training at four different salons across the UK, made the difficult decision of closing down the shop she has run for 12 years and will start working from home later this month.

“It wasn’t an easy decision to make, but hairdressing as a profession has changed, due to Covid and social media. People are also now doing other jobs on the side to make ends meet,” Okonta says. “I remember when Jennifer posted the lemonade braids I did for her in 2017, my phone wouldn’t stop ringing. I gained so many new and young clients from that collaboration. But I also noticed when there was a decline, and happy they are coming back.”

Even though times have been hard, and some of Britain’s African braiders have had to switch careers and become bus drivers or health care workers, most will never let hairdressing go. “Our customers won’t even allow it. We are here to stay, whether we like it or not. But we’ve got to be innovative, that’s why I turned half of my salon into a restaurant,” says Cole. 

I’m planning to get my hair braided in August for my birthday, maybe this time around, when an African auntie asks me if I want to do my hair, I’ll say yes.

This story was originally published on Unbothered’s UK edition.

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If you clicked on this article, I’m willing to bet (and I’m not a betting gal) that you’ve experienced acne at some point in your life. After all, acne is the most common skin condition in the U.S. (affecting up to 50 million Americans annually, according to the AAD). So, why does it still feel like when we get a massive zit, we’re the only ones, quite frankly, dealing with this shit? Well, welcome to our first (but hopefully not last) Acne Week, where we’re going to get real about pimples, p.acnes, products, and perceptions around breakouts.

To anyone who thinks that acne is only skin deep, I hope the stories you’ll see this week will help clear that up. The truth is that acne can have a very real effect in terms of how we move about the world and the way we feel about ourselves — I know it has on me.

From tried-and-true products that our editors rely on to keep their complexions clear to what it’s like to work in beauty and have persistent acne, we hope this curated lineup empowers you with the knowledge to take care of your face and the kindness to meet your skin no matter where it’s at.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy or click on something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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